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2024/25 West Asia
2024/25 West Asia
My only destination during this trip was Iran, but due to the missile attacks between Israel, Iran and several military organizations, I also spent a week in Istanbul. All flights to Iran and many other countries in the region were cancelled, and the Western media added fuel to the fire, scaring me with war. Getting to Iran was problematic, but I didn’t let myself to be intimidated and had a wonderful trip that lasted almost four months.
Expedition in the shadow of war
I flew to Iran in early October 2024, so during the intensive missile attacks carried out on one side by Israel, and on the other by Iran and its military organizations. The Western media of course blamed Iran for everything and completely justified Israel’s terrorist actions. I had been planning my trip to Iran for a long time, I had my visa and flight about a month earlier, and that’s why I didn’t want to be a coward. I didn’t want to give up my long-awaited Persian adventure because of the horror stories in the Western media.
General Qasem Soleimani. Tehran Metro.
I was travelling to Iran while Israel was still bombing Gaza and Lebanon, which had its consequences for the trip. When I arrived at the airport in Istanbul, I learned that all flights to Tehran were cancelled. Flights were also cancelled to Iraq, Jordan, Lebanon and several other countries in the region. The regime in Israel and its subordinate liberal regimes in the US, UK and Canada cut off flights to Iran for the next two months. All Turkish airlines cancelled flights multiple times, until they finally cut them off indefinitely.
I was therefore flying to Iran at a very difficult time for the country. Officially, the airlines didn’t want to fly to Iran because they were afraid that missiles would shoot down passenger planes; so as usual, ‘it was all for our own good’. I believe that the regimes fighting Iran once again wanted to harm Iran economically, and that’s why they always do what they can to isolate Iran as much as possible. Every time Israel carries out terrorist attacks, the Western regimes under occupation of Jewish media and covered by the Jewish banking system, introduce even more chaos to the benefit of the Zionist regime in occupied Palestine.
The propaganda of fear
I wanted to get to Iran, but as it turned out, the situation in Turkey was also tense. In the hostel where I was staying there were many Iranians waiting for flights to Iran to resume. There were also those who were returning from the airport in Istanbul for the umpteenth time. I also went to the Turkish airport again, but only to return my ticket. The Iranians and Turks in the hostel that I met scared me with: “to not to go, to wait, to try next year, and that it was not the right time”. One even told me with tears in his eyes that his life was worthless anyway, but mine was worth something, that’s why I shouldn’t go. The Iranians who were waiting for me in Iran were also influenced by the propaganda of fear, because they also wrote to me that: “I probably won’t come because of this situation”. The situation was therefore tense.
Ayatollah Khomeini and Khamenei on a mural in Kashan.
However, I didn’t believe those lies and I had no intention of giving up. I got used to the fact that wherever I went, they always tried to scare me. I understood that in order to get to Iran at that time, I had to have very strong nerves and I had a few ideas. I could have flown to Van, a city in eastern Turkey, where I was in 2017. From there I could have taken a bus to Iran, to Tabriz, but I didn’t like that option. It was a hassle that would have taken me even more time and effort. I had already travelled through eastern Turkey on my way to Iraq, and the Turkish police pulled me off the road for questioning with a few machine guns; at a time when there was no war. This time I was expecting more trouble on the Turkish-Iranian border and even more nervous cops, who I didn’t miss.
For that reason I checked if Iranian airlines were still flying to Iran, and luckily they were. Iranian Airlines have websites only in Persian, and because Iran is under all possible sanctions, I was unable to pay with my British card. Anyway, I managed to buy a flight, and after being further threatened in the hostel, kebab shop and even in a cake shop, I went to the airport and flew to Iran. They also threatened me that I wouldn’t get there because a missile would hit my plane, but I was so tired of their threats that I slept through most of the flight. They woke me up for a meal and soon after I landed at Imam Khomeini Airport in Tehran. Before landing I had a view of Damavand.
The media has huge power over people’s minds, which I first experienced in London and then in Istanbul. Some only threatened me with death, others thought I was going to war, and in the hostel in Iran I was met with great suspicion because I dared to come. One young Iranian woman asked me with all seriousness if I was a spy. I replied that I had come to spy on her under the shower.
Eram Garden, Shiraz, Iran.
Well… I got to Iran despite the fear and hate propaganda, while Iran, Israel and other military groups were still conducting missile attacks against each other. I went, I saw and I came back – and I also think that I won because my expedition was a success. (Veni, Vidi, Vici). I’m glad that I didn’t let myself to be intimidated because otherwise I would never have gotten to Iran, but I’ve been in such situations before, that it is probably hard to arouse fear in me.
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I would like to explain one thing that I mentioned earlier, but which people still don’t understand:
-Being a tourist and an adventure traveller are two different things.
-Photos from many countries look good, but travelling in those countries is hard and tiring.
-“You are very lucky and so rich because you went there”. My travels have nothing to do with luck or wealth, but rather with the will to fight, strength of character, desire to discover the world, ability to take risks, striving for a goal, and mental resilience to all those who constantly scared me to not to go anywhere anymore.
I remember how many years ago they scared me to not to go to Iraq because most of that country was controlled by ISIS. So I went to Iraqi Kurdistan and it was very nice, even though the Iraqis were armed to the teeth, as if they were waiting for invasion. Never let a small conflict ruin your vacation!
Tower of Silence. Yazd, Iran.
Stay in Istanbul
I didn’t experience any harm in Turkey. I lived near Taksim Square, spent time on the Bosphorus and saw many monuments – but Turkey was not my destination during this expedition. I wanted to get to Iran.
I liked Istanbul very much and I consider it a very good tourist city. Istanbul is also very easy to get around by public transport, and that’s why I easily travelled by metro and tram. Although I didn’t plan to visit Istanbul, I must admit that I saw it better than last time. I saw the former church of Hagia Sophia and the huge Sultan Ahmet mosque again. I went on a Bosphorus cruise, walked on the bridge separating Europe and Asia, and from there I walked up the hill to the Galata Tower. From Taksim I also walked down to the Bosphorus, and then took a bus to the Rumeli Fortress.
In Istanbul I really liked that I could spend time peacefully on the Bosphorus. I also swam in the sea; once in the Bebek district and another time near the Topkapi Palace. I ate watermelons and Turkish sweets and kebabs, until I had enough of them. They were good, but who can eat kebabs and bakhlava every day? Despite the fact that Istanbul is a huge city with 16 million people and tiring traffic, you can also relax while being in this interesting city. According to statista.com, in October 2024, so when I was there, Istanbul was visited by 1.7 million tourists. In Turkey I saw very long lines to tourist attractions, crowds of Russians at the bazaars and crowds at the airport; as if the whole world had moved to Turkey for a while.
Leander’s Tower, also known as the Maiden’s Tower, on the Bosphorus. Istanbul, Turkey.
In Turkey I didn’t like the notorious smoking of cigarettes, even in public places, and even inside while drinking tea. There is no education there about the harmfulness of smoking tobacco. About 85,000 Turks die each year from smoking, but when I pointed it out to them, they were willing to go to war for their cigarette. In Turkey smoking is an epidemic, like the Black Death in 14th-century Europe.
In Istanbul you can stay longer than you planned, especially that in winter it’s not so hot anymore. I felt good in Turkey, I saw a lot and it was nice – but my destination was Iran. After almost a week I managed to fly to Tehran.
Read: “Istanbul travel guide”.
Islam in Turkey
When in Istanbul, it is impossible not to notice a lot of huge mosques and loud prayers five times a day, that disturb the peace. This is of course a way to emphasize Muslim domination over Constantinople, which was taken by force. On the one hand it is nice but on the other I saw big mosques which were like military bases, and tall minarets were like missiles. Loud prayers didn’t sound like prayers but like calls for war. Let me remind you that officially Turkey is not an Islamic republic, but I think that in its setting the Islamic regime of Turkey is more aggressive and extreme than the one in Iran; where I was heading to.
Ironically, Kemal Ataturk who was an anti-Islamist is promoted as the national hero of Turkey. Posters, monuments and souvenirs for tourists with his face are visible at airports, in the subway, on the streets and probably everywhere they can fit. Erdogan however is the opposite of Ataturk. In my opinion Erdogan would fit better with the Taliban than in a Muslim country bordering Europe, where Ataturk is promoted as the national hero.
Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey.
The regime in Turkey is definitely taking Turkey back in time culturally. I have the impression that under the Erdogan regime, Islam is supposed to be warlike and ultra-conservative, which is contrary to the opinion of many Turks. Some time ago, on the only free land in a large city in Turkey, the regime ordered to build another mosque, despite the lack of parks and that there thousands of mosques already. When I went to Turkey a long time ago, there were no loud, tiring prayers like in Saudi Arabia. Some Turks also complained to me about too much immigration from Syria, because they are Turks, not Arabs. Inside Islam it is not sweet neither.
Expedition around Iran
Unlike Istanbul, Tehran’s Khomeini Airport was empty. I was the only traveller in line for passport control for foreigners. The fear propaganda, Iran’s isolation, sanctions and war in the region meant that I had never seen an airport without people before. Then, in the subway, on the street and in the hotel I had the impression that I was the only tourist, and people were very surprised that I had come.
From the beginning I instinctively felt that Iran would be safe, and indeed it was. As it turned out Iran was much safer than culturally and racially enriched Europe. I left all the horrors behind and intended to have a beautiful expedition through Persia.
I started in Tehran, where I spent a week and then returned twice. I had plenty of time in Iran, that’s why I saw many places throughout the country. I saw a lot of mosques, bazaars, gardens, carpets, kebabs, sheep, camels and treasures of the desert. I was not in a hurry.
Central Desert. On an expedition near the Garmeh Oasis. Iran
Regarding the main cities I spent a lot of time in Tehran, Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd and Shiraz. I think that all those cities are very important for travellers and must be seen. This is where there are important museums, old towns, ancient bazaars, art and Persian tradition left by ancestors. Each of those cities also offers trips to very attractive historical places. These include the ruins of old cities, Zoroastrian temples, old castles in the colour of the desert and cultural villages of ancient Persia. Let’s not imagine that after reaching Kashan or Shiraz we would quickly see one bazaar, one mosque and leave. Absolutely not! Iran takes time, it’s a country of great distances, and there is also a lot to see near each city.
From Shiraz you should definitely see Persepolis and the surrounding tombs and bas-reliefs in Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab. From Yazd I took a day trip to the small historical city of Meybod, which has an old castle in the colour of the desert, an ice house, traditional Persian caravanserai and an impressive Persian old town. When it comes to cultural villages, I recommend Abyaneh, Kandovan and Masuleh, but they are not the only ones.
The Central Desert was also a great adventure. When I was going there I thought I would stop at my base in Khoor, see one desert oasis and leave, but I stayed much longer. I was in Garmeh, Iraj and Bayaze. I enjoyed the time I spent in the oases, eating dates straight from the palms and pomegranates from the bushes. I saw ancient Persian streets, merchants’ houses and castle ruins covered with a mixture of clay and sawdust. I think that in a desert climate it’s a good idea to use building materials available in nature, which also matches the colour of the desert. For example the historical village of Abyaneh is called the ‘red village’, because the houses there are covered with red clay, widely available in that region of Iran.
Ayatollah Ali Khamenei is advertised throughout Iran. Baharestan district, Tehran.
As for small cities I really liked the historical cities of Abarqu and Shushtar. Abarqu was a desert-coloured city between Yazd and Shiraz and had some features in common with those two cities, and with Kashan. There was an ice house, huge minarets, castle ruins, a lonely tomb in the desert and a 4,000-year-old big tree. Shushtar in Khuzestan province was green and picturesquely situated by the river. It was a city of bridges, where the main attraction was the hydraulic system with dams, caves and waterfalls built by the Romans.
I did a trek on the Caspian Sea, climbed Damavand and the Rudhkan fortress. But even without all the tiring challenges that Iran has to offer, I enjoyed spending time with people, drinking tea, with camels in the desert and in mountain canyons.
Read the full article about my trip to Iran: “The “Axis of Evil” travel guide”.
Return from Iran
I have collected a lot of materials from my expedition around Iran. I have thousands of photos and videos, I intend to write many articles about Iran and I also intend to update the entire current section about Iran. Contrary to the hate propaganda against Iran, especially by Israel, US and the UK; I consider Iran to be an interesting, valuable and safe country for travellers. Contrary to the propaganda of fear I guarantee that Iran is much safer than the racially and culturally enriched European cities.
It was a very interesting but difficult trip around this large and interesting country. This time I spent 3.5 months in Iran, which is 2 months longer than the previous time. I saw old historic cities, traditional Persian bazaars, ancient villages, I travelled through the desert, I was at salt lakes and I climbed mountains. I feel that this time I got to know Iran much better and I wish others the same.
A Persian man sells rugs in front of his house. These are traditional Persian rugs made of sheep’s wool called ‘kilim’. I recommend it! Historic red sandstone village of Abyaneh. Iran
It is important that travellers do not form their opinion about Iran based on Western propaganda, especially that I doubt that they’ve even been there. Every regime has its own story, and the more I travel the more I am convinced of the lies of the British regime and its media. The Iranian regime has its own story too. I only ask that we try to separate, at least to some extent, the war rhetoric about Iran from Iran as a tourist destination. Besides, every country has the right to defend itself and look after its own interests.
I recommend my article: “Characteristic Features of Iran”, in which I write more about the people of Iran and about the Iranian version of Islam.
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