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Iran – The Ancient City of Rey
Iran – The Ancient City of Rey
On the outskirts of Tehran lies one of the most historically important sites. At the turn of the 11th and 12th centuries, Rey was a major commercial and cultural center, but it was destroyed by the Mongols. Today, Rey is a worthwhile excursion outside of Tehran and offers several interesting sights. Rey is a historic province on the outskirts of Tehran, but I didn’t stop at Rey. I also organized a trip to the ruins of the Fire Temple, on a hill outside the city.
Rey
Before I get into my review, I’d like to say that I don’t recommend going to Rey just to see the sights. For me, the adventure in the small desert town was what mattered. I enjoyed the small streets with desert-coloured walls and the old cars and mopeds among them. I bought fruit from a traveling vendor and saw many posters of Ayatollah Khamenei and Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah.
Fruit seller on the street in Rey.
I also visited a Persian tavern near the ruins of an old castle. I sat in a chaikhana, sipping tea, while the Persians smoked shisha. It was a pleasant, peaceful day in the desert climate. Wherever I go, Iran truly has its charm.
Rey offers a sense of rural Iran with an interesting history, offering a respite from the hustle and bustle of Tehran; and at the same time, it’s just a few stops from the capital. I explored Rey on foot, leisurely, through empty beige streets lined with old cars.
You can reach Rey by metro, getting off at Shahr-e-Rey station, but don’t expect a typical Tehran metro station. Rey has its own unique charm, appealing to tourists.
In the foreground happy Iranians with their iconic blue car. Behind them, the Imamzadeh Shash-e-Abdal-Azim mosque and a portrait of Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah.
Shah Mosque (Imamzadeh Shash-e-Abdal-Azim)
Each city in Iran, even the smallest, has a mosque, a center of religious and social life and a point of reference. I went to Rey for adventure and to see ancient monuments unrelated to Islam. Nevertheless, Rey is home to the impressive Shah Mosque (Imamzadeh Shah-e-Abd Al-Azim), the center of the town’s social and commercial life.
The mosque features a large plaza with a pool, a golden dome, two tall minarets, typical Persian arches covered with blue tiles, and a multitude of small mirrors. Completed in the 9th century, the mosque is a blend of several styles, depending on the dynasty in power.
Shah Mosque (Imamzadeh Shash-e-Abdal-Azim) in Rey. A water feature with a fountain is a great idea in the hot climate of Iran.
In the Shah Mosque, a large room lined with thousands of mirrors houses the chapel of Imam Hamzeh, brother of the famous 8th-century Imam Reza. From the perspective of a Western traveller, it was a pleasant experience for me to enter the room with the Persians to visit his chapel. You don’t have to be a Muslim or an expert on the religion to see how people experience Islam and treat their holy places. The mosque also houses a 14th-century betel nut sarcophagus.
After leaving the mosque, you might feel dizzy, as the light from the green chandeliers reflects off the thousands of mirrors on the walls and ceilings.
A walk through the courtyard was also pleasant. Besides the Islamic architecture, the water and greenery also offer a rich experience. The mosque grounds also house tombstones. From the Middle Ages to the present, many famous people have been buried here, including members of the Qajar family, clerics, scholars, and politicians. I had the impression that many people came to the mosque to relax in the shade, sit under a tree, and simply spend time with their group. I came across a lecture by a mullah, which sparked a cheerful reaction among the faithful. I left quickly because I didn’t understand what he was saying.
The Shah Mosque (Imamzadeh Shash-e-Abdal-Azim) from a different perspective. Please take a look at the arch of this gate and the blue mosaic on the gate behind me. Persian architects are ‘masters of patience’.
After leaving, I stopped on the street to buy fruit from the traveling vendors and take another look at the mosque from afar. The Rey bazaar is active in the evenings, after the day’s heat.
I should add that Rey has another historic cemetery, the Ibn Babawayh cemetery.
Togrul Tower
The Togrul Tower is a 12th-century monument located in a pleasant park in the city of Rey, Iran. This massive brick tower stands 20 meters high, has an internal diameter of 11 meters, and an external diameter of 16 meters. The walls themselves range in thickness from 1.75 to 2.75 meters and feature arches and bricks arranged to enhance the tower’s appeal. Historians believe the tower is the tomb of the Seljuk ruler Tughril I, who died in 1063, and may have also served as a lighthouse or a solar-based timekeeping device.
Togrul Tower. Rey. Iran.
The exterior of the Togrul Tower is a 24-sided polygon, designed to increase its stability in the event of earthquakes. Unfortunately, like other monuments of the time, it had a conical dome (gonbad) on top, which collapsed during the earthquake. What a shame.
Iran is located in a zone of high seismic activity, created by the interaction of several tectonic plates. As early as the 12th century, Persian architects built with earthquake resistance in mind, but medieval technology and the severity of the earthquakes prevented this monument from being fully preserved.
From a traveller’s perspective, the Togrul Tower is a pleasant spot in a pretty little park, where you can admire interesting architecture. It’s also cooler inside the tower.
Inside the Togrul tomb tower. It’s a must to step inside to experience the depth of this place. This is how Persians built as early as the 12th century. Noteworthy is the intricate brickwork.
Cheshmeh Ali Cultural Complex
Cheshmeh Ali and all the sites within its grounds are arguably the most charming and valuable non-Islamic site in Rey. It is a recreational area, beautifully located, and rich in history.
Introduction
Cheshmeh Ali has immense archaeological and cultural value, dating back to the Neolithic period; that is, thousands of years old. The site was associated with the Parthian Empire. For centuries, Cheshmeh Ali served as a recreational center, where local customs, such as the washing of Persian rugs, were also held. Carved into the rock are bas-reliefs from the Qajar era, a symbol of Iranian identity and adding to the beauty of the landscape.
The Ghal’eh Rey fortification is part of the Cheshmeh Ali Rey cultural complex.
Rey Castle
On a rocky hill, visible from afar, stands Rey Castle, also known as the Rey Fortification or Ghal’eh Rey. Rey Castle is an ancient defensive structure situated on a hill above the Cheshmeh Ali spring. Although it proudly bears the name “castle,” today it is a grand and impressive desert-coloured wall. Rey Castle is over 2,300 years old and was an important strategic fortress during the era of various Persian empires. During the Sassanid period, Rey Castle was indeed a castle and the residence of the most influential families. Although reduced to ruins, its remains remained important for Rey’s defence during the Arab invasions of Persia.
In the 20th century, significant efforts were made to restore one of the remaining walls on the hill. It was covered with a mixture of clay and dry grass, often used in Iran, to give the structure a desert color. Furthermore, there are carefully crafted military decorations on the top and sides of the wall. Even this single restored wall on the rock, especially from a distance, looks impressive against the backdrop of greenery and palm trees and conveys a sense of the era.
A side street in Rey.
Shah Fath Ali’s Inscription
Below the ancient wall of Rey Castle, above a spring, stands a petroglyph, or bas-relief carved into the rock. This inscription is of Shah Fath Ali, commissioned by the Shah to depict himself and his sons, thus celebrating the power of the Qajar dynasty and alluding to ancient Persian might. It is dated 1831, meaning the bas-relief was created during the reign of Shah Fath Ali (1797-1834).
In the center of the bas-relief, we see the king seated on a throne, wearing a high crown and a sword at his belt. To the right, we see the king under an umbrella, holding an eagle in his hand. Alongside him are his loyal courtiers.
Shah Fath Ali’s inscription in the rock under Rey Castle.
Tragically, there was also a second bas-relief from the same period, which was destroyed due to explosions at a nearby cement factory. This petroglyph depicted a lion hunt, and ironically, the surviving parts were displayed in a cement factory. The lion hunt was no coincidence, as many rulers used this motif to emphasize their power, authority, and control over the forces of nature.
Pool with Underground Mineral Spring
At the very bottom of Cheshmeh Ali lies a pool with an underground mineral spring. This place was once a popular gathering place for families and was also used to maintain the Persian culture of carpet washing. In Iran’s hot climate, it was a very important place, providing much joy and serving as a social and cultural center.
Unfortunately, for some time now, the Cheshmeh-Ali spring in Rey has been gradually drying up and decreasing in volume. This is primarily due to the construction of Line 6 of the Tehran Metro, which disrupted the underground flow of mineral waters. Furthermore, in Rey, a naturally and archaeologically rich area, the city’s constant expansion continues, placing additional pressure on natural resources.
Traveller Martin Malik in front of the Cheshmeh Ali cultural complex. In the background we can see the Rey Castle Rey fortification, and on the right a bas-relief of Shah Fath Ali. I wonder if the water will ever return tot he pool?
This situation is very troubling for residents and officials responsible for protecting cultural heritage, as in the name of civilizational progress, northern Iran is losing a place of profound historical and recreational value. When I was in Rey at this spring in 2024, I no longer saw children bathing or people washing carpets. There was very little water.
In theory, Cheshme Ali is protected, but despite warnings from environmentalists and promises from Iranian officials that the water level would be restored, the water flow has significantly decreased. Although Cheshme Ali was declared a natural heritage site in 2021 and discussions are ongoing about restoring the spring, the water flow remains a key issue.
My summary of Cheshme Ali is as follows: I wish you success in restoring this site to its original glory. In times like these, as someone who means well for Iran, I conclude that it probably wouldn’t be a major problem for the Islamic regime if it produced one less rocket and invested that money in the reconstruction of the ancient spring.
A street in Rey and an old blue car that I often saw in Iran.
Rashkan Castle
Rashkan Castle is too proud a name for this structure these days. In my honest opinion, it is the ruins of an ancient fortress undergoing restoration. I witnessed this, and I believe that, like many other castles in Iran, Rashkan Castle has the potential to return to at least some of its former glory. The entire structure is well-secured and easy to navigate, with scaffolding stairs leading to each section.
The walls of Rashkan Castle rise to a height of 5 to 10 meters and were constructed from a mixture of lime, ash, and stone. The structure was built during the Parthian dynasty of Persia. Most of the walls are destroyed, although I saw workers rebuilding the walls and arches in the ancient style to restore its original character. However, I believe this will take a long time, as there are too few builders and the work is progressing too slowly.
Ruins of Rashkan Castle. Rey.
Many war artifacts have been discovered within Rashkan Castle, which are currently on display at the National Museum of Iran. They offer a glimpse into daily life during the Parthian period and help visitors understand how people lived and fought in this place almost 2,000 years ago. The fortress’s layout reveals how residents organized their defences during that era.
From the summit, there are sweeping views of the entire city of Rey, including the hideous cement factory that destroyed the bas-relief above the Cheshmeh Ali Spring. Rashkan Castle is certainly a pleasant excursion, but don’t expect the same experience offered by other castles and fortresses in Iran, such as Rayen Castle, Bam Citadel, or even the better-renovated castle at Meybod. The splendor of Rashkan has to wait. I advise visitors to wear comfortable shoes and watch their heads.
Tappeh Mil Fire Temple
About 15 km from Rey, the Zoroastrian Barhama, or Fire Temple, is located on a hilltop, dating back to the Sassanid Empire (224-651 CE). Some archaeologists believe it may have even older roots, dating back to the Achaemenid Empire. This temple is famous for its brick structure, vaulted halls, and ancient sacred hearth. Remains of ornate columns, geometric patterns, and tunnels for the sacred fire are found there.
Tappeh Mil Fire Temple, near Rey.
Distinctive features include a sacred altar with a hearth, which, traditionally in all fire temples, is kept constantly alight. There are also underground tunnels for transporting the fire to avoid contact with sunlight, and traces of Sassanid-era decorations.
This Bahram temple is one of the oldest Zoroastrian fire temples in Iran, having served as the main place of worship in the area around Rey for centuries. It lies on a hill near the village of Ghal’eh Noe and was excavated by French archaeologists in 1901.
From a traveller’s perspective, it was a very interesting adventure. When I arrived, I first had to walk across a wooden footbridge in the desert until I reached the summit. I was there at the right time of day, as I saw the ancient fire temple before sunset.
Tappeh Mil Fire Temple, seen from the side. Rey area.
Even after 2,500 years, I was still impressed by the temple’s exquisite craftsmanship in red brick and stone, its high arches, and the way shadows played with the sun’s movement. Unfortunately, with the rise of Islam, Zoroastrian temples fell into neglect. Only in recent decades have they begun to be cared for and promoted as tourist attractions in Iran.
Summary of Rey
For such a small town on the outskirts of Tehran, I believe Rey and its surrounding area have much to offer. Provided the regime takes Rey seriously, is willing to rebuild it, and makes the necessary investments, Rey could become one of the main tourist destinations near Tehran.
I believe that the Cheshmeh Ali mineral spring needs to be restored to Rey, so that it can once again become vibrant. Then, desert people will begin to settle there; instead of producing cement, they will produce carpets, graze goats, and open their homes to tourists. In the meantime, Rashkan Castle should be rebuilt and Rey given a traditional Persian character, without forced progress, which in this case proved destructive.
View of Rey.
I wanted to dedicate a separate article to Rey, rather than including it in my Tehran guide. This way, Rey will be more visible, and perhaps someone will be interested in investing in this historically interesting part of Iran. If the mineral spring could be restored to its original state, the area around Rey could even be transformed into fields of date palms, pomegranates, and bananas, close to the center of Tehran. While traveling in the central desert, I was in desert oases where this turned out to be possible, and Rey has much more possibilities.
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