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Istanbul travel guide
Istanbul travel guide
Istanbul is a very interesting city, and I’ve described its tourist attractions with many superlatives. The Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Galata tower and a cruise on the Bosphorus, are just some of what this very attractive tourist city has to offer. I loved the traditional Turkish bazaar, Turkish carpets and lanterns; and of course Turkish tea, sweets, and some of the best kebabs in the world. My article is mainly about Istanbul as a tourist city, although I also refer to its brutal history, and social, demographic and cultural changes.
Istanbul – tourist city
I’ve been going to Istanbul since I was a boy, and each time I get to know that city better and gain new experiences. Over the years, I’ve seen how Istanbul and its people change. After my numerous and frequent visits to Istanbul I have no doubt that it’s a very attractive city for many reasons. Istanbul offers interesting monuments; such as ancient mosques, a traditional Turkish bazaar, palaces and fortresses, but also good cuisine and a pleasant walks by the Bosphorus. Over the years, Istanbul has also built a reputation as a medical tourism destination, which is evident in its streets and airports.
Street Art: Kemal Ataturk and the Maiden’s Tower on the Bosphorus. Istanbul. Türkiye.
I’ve never limited my stay in Istanbul just to ticking off the sights, and I wouldn’t recommend it to other tourists either. Sometimes a few kilometres in the historic part of the city offer so many attractions that you could spend an entire day there. A tourist plans to see one ancient mosque and palace that day, but spends an hour at a kebab shop along the way. Then, they’re stopped by sellers of cheap perfume, and soon after they spend most of the day in the labyrinthine of Grand Bazaar, with breaks for Turkish tea and sweets. By the time they leave, it’s dark and they realize they haven’t reached the Bosphorus yet, and still have much to see. The entire city of Istanbul is transformed into an open-air bazaar, where people have much to sell and much to say. A single invitation for tea can end in a long and tiring conversation, leading to the purchase of leather jacket or a carpet that no one needs.
As in many other corners of the world, in Istanbul I met people who shared their stories with me, and to whom I also shared my honest opinions. Therefore, my article about Istanbul is not only about tourism but it’s also social, with references to history, and to a small extent it is also political. For this reason I recommend my article also to Turkish people who live in Istanbul.
On the way from the airport, even at night, I saw many enormous mosques and a forest of minarets. I thought: Is this about religion or domination?
A flight from London to Istanbul takes only four hours, and a one-way ticket can cost £30-£40. Due to the many attractions that require time I always recommend buying a one-way ticket. Budget travellers, so those staying in the cheapest hostels, eating street food, and using the metro – can live comfortably in Istanbul on £20 a day or less. Staying there is also hassle-free, as Turkey is a country open to business. European citizens can stay in Turkey for up to 90 days in any 180-day period for tourism or business purposes, without requiring a visa.
Turkish sailor by the Bosporus. Istanbul. Turkey.
The only thing I couldn’t stand in Istanbul, and about which I got into several arguments, were cigarettes. There’s even a saying: “He smokes like a Turk”, and unfortunately it is true. In Turkey smoking is no longer an addiction but a national disaster. If someone ever writes about me that “A Polish/British racist beat up Turks or immigrants of colour living in Istanbul,” they should first find out if it wasn’t about cigarettes. I guarantee it could be only that. The average Turk is born with a cigarette and never puts it out, as the death toll from this deadly habit clearly demonstrates.
Useful articles about Turkey
I also recommend my article: “2024/25 West Asia”. On my way to Iran I had to stop in Istanbul for a week because of the missile exchange between Israel, Iran and its military organizations. I put new photos there and described what my life in Istanbul was like during that difficult time. Flights to Iran were cancelled because airlines didn’t want to risk the plane being shot down by either side. I posted new photos and described what my life was like in Istanbul during that difficult time. It was pleasant, but Turkey wasn’t my destination at the time.
In addition to the general information about the country Turkey, another interesting article is “Expedition to eastern Turkey 2017”, where I described my journey through the lands inhabited by Kurds. There, I describe the big differences between Istanbul and the tourist centres of western Turkey, and the less-visited eastern Turkey. I say with certainty that there are two countries in one. In western Turkey I felt like a tourist, while in the east I felt like a suspect. At the airport in Istanbul a lady selling the ticket asked me if I was a journalist or a spy, because she didn’t believe me that I was going to Van as a tourist. Soon my new adventure was about to begin in Kurdish Turkey, which Erdogan does not advertise on postcards. Even in Istanbul, when I told tea and sweets sellers that I’d been to the cities of Batman and Diyarbakir, they looked at me from head to toe and refused to speak to me. There is a huge difference in people’s mentality. I recommend this article!
Istanbul – tourist location and transport
Introduction
According to data from 2025, Istanbul has a population of approximately 16.5 million, and is visited by approximately 18 million tourists annually. Some estimates suggest 23 million tourists annually, which makes Istanbul one of the most visited cities in the world. With such a huge population, Istanbul naturally requires good transportation, which is why it has a very well-developed metro system, which makes getting around this overcrowded city easy. Istanbul also has trams, a network of buses and taxis, ferries; and traffic which I recommend avoiding. Istanbul also has two airports: Ataturk on the European side, and Sabiha Gökçen on the Asian side.
Anyone who goes to Istanbul will certainly not escape the smell of kebabs.
I always land on the Asian side, at the budget-friendly Sabiha Gökçen Airport. This is where the poor and frugal land, and from that airport depart budget airlines like Pegasus and A Jet. You can reach the city by metro if you’re lucky enough to arrive during the day, or at least make it to the metro before midnight. Flights from England always arrive late, when the metro is already closed, so the only option in this situation is the Havabus. For less than 400 liras you can travel directly from Sabiha Gökçen Airport to Taksim Square or Sultanahmet. The organization is excellent, and the bus departs only when the it’s full and the driver has finished smoking.
Tourist location
There are many budget hostels near both Sultanahmet and Taksim Square, so it depends on your preference. Over the years I’ve paid £6-£8 for a shared room in both districts. Sultanahmet is the very centre and a landmark of Istanbul, home to the Blue Mosque and the former church from the time of Constantinople, the Hagia Sophia. It’s a good location for tourists who also want to be within easy reach of Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar, Gülhane Park leading to the Bosphorus, and a few tram stops to the Galata Tower. I previously preferred this area, and I recommend it primarily to tourists who have limited time, a return ticket, and want to have as many sights as possible close by. However, Sultanahmet is very crowded, the prices are more exorbitant, and it’s a typical area which I describe as a “tourist ghetto.”
In recent years I’ve had my base of operations in the very pleasant Taksim Square. This is also a tourist district, full of shops, kebabs, restaurants, currency exchanges and budget hotels, but far from the hustle and bustle of Sultanahmet. Within a walking distance from Taksim Square it’s also cheaper than in Sultanahmet. You can go down to the cafes and kebabs, authentic Turkish pubs and teahouses, and buy oysters with rice and roasted chestnuts near the metro station. Near Taksim Square there’s a pleasant green space with a fountain, Gezi Park, where it’s nice to relax in the hot climate. Unfortunately, in the centre of Taksim the regime built another massive mosque: Taksim Camii, which opened in 2021. I just ask, what is the point, if Istanbul already has 3,000 mosques? The regime also wanted to concrete over Gezi Park and build another massive mosque in its place. In 2013, even Muslim Turks organized a demonstration against it because Gezi Park was one of the last green areas in Istanbul. Taksim Square offers easy metro access to many points of interest, which I’ll discuss below.
Taksim Square is a popular tourist destination in Istanbul. The is the Taksim Camii mosque and Gezi Park on the other side.
Near Taksim Square there’s a very pleasant place: the neo-Gothic St. Anthony Church, built in 1912. Known for its beautiful architecture, stained glass windows and peaceful interior, it serves as an important spiritual center for the local Catholic community.
I should also mention that there are always prostitutes standing in Taksim Square, but that’s an option only for the most desperate men. I’ve travelled through most of Asia, but I’ve never seen such ugly and repulsive women. Men stand at a safe distance from them and make fun of them. I don’t consider myself shy around women, but I was genuinely scared of them. When I was in Bahrain I kissed a camel, but those terrible women I simply don’t want.
Transport
If you want to explore Istanbul easily, quickly, and cheaply, I recommend traveling by metro. It’s well-organized, clean, and punctual. Many tourists, especially those on organized tours only use buses and taxis, but I prefer independence and transportation that’s unaffected by traffic. I advise you to carefully study the metro map and find out which stations are closest to the most important tourist attractions. Trams are also a great addition to the metro system, as they operate in the most tourist-friendly parts of Istanbul. I also consider walking tours to be very important, what I will discuss below.
Considering that our base is Taksim Square, I will briefly outline some useful routes below that will certainly help you explore Istanbul. I will provide more details about these places in subsequent chapters.
!! Here’s an enlarged map of the Istanbul metro.
- Yenikapi station is a large metro station on the European side and a transfer hub to many places of interest. After exiting Yenikapi I always liked to spend time in the Aksaray district, where there is a tram stop of the same name. From Aksaray it’s only four tram stops to Sultanahmet, where the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are located. From there you can also walk down to the Bosphorus.
- Continuing on the same tram, one stop from Sultanahmet you can get off at Gülhane Park, near Topkapi Palace, and then walk through the park to the Bosphorus.
- Three stops from Gülhane, after crossing the Bosphorus, you can get off at Karaköy station and walk uphill to the famous Galata Tower.
- If you only want to see the Galata Tower and spend the day in the port district of Karaköy, you can also get there by metro. It is one stop from Taksim Square to Şişhane station.
- If you like walking and have patience for buses, you can walk down from Taksim Square to the Bosphorus. There are buses there that can take you, among other places, to the Bebek, where there is a pleasant park and a natural swimming area in the Bosphorus. From there you can continue by bus or walk less than 2 km to the famous Rumeli Fortress.
Yenikapi Station is one of the main transfer hubs in Istanbul.
My tips will be certainly very helpful, but remember that each of those places is engaging, and that’s why I don’t recommend rushing through them. I believe the route from Aksaray to Karaköy can be divided into a multi-day walking tour, as it is an exceptionally attractive part of Istanbul. Along the way you can see, among other things: Istanbul University with its impressive gate, several old and spectacular mosques, the Grand Bazaar, the Column of Constantine, a historic Turkish bath, the Basilica Cistern, and a wealth of shops selling carpets, Turkish sweets and herbal teas. This entire route is important for anyone who wants to learn about the history, landmarks, Turkish culture, Turkish cuisine, and the character of the Istanbul.
Contact with people is also incredibly important – that is contact with tea vendors, sellers of cheap perfumes, or with local Muslims in mosques who never get tired of trying to convince us of the righteousness of Islam. Let’s give them all a chance for the sake of our experience, what doesn’t mean we have to buy everything or convert to Islam. Contact with people is essential in my travels.
Istanbul – main sights
Introduction
I don’t want to suggest to future travellers that Istanbul’s appeal lies solely in its sights; because interesting are also its people, Arabic sweets, and the atmosphere of the city transformed into a bazaar. Nevertheless, there are certain sights in Istanbul that are definitely worth seeing, and I’ll briefly describe some of them here. I assure however that there are many more.
Sultanahmet Square
On my first day I went to see the great Sultan Ahmet Blue Mosque, although first I stopped at Sultanahmet Square, with its fountain and palm trees, flanked by the Sultan Ahmet Mosque on one side and the Hagia Sophia on the other. These two monuments, and the square between them are the tourist centre of Istanbul, which are always crowded with tourists. There are souvenir shops, sellers of corn, ice cream, and roasted chestnuts, hawkers selling perfumes and souvenirs, and pigeons that come for dinner.
Sultanahmet Square is the center of Istanbul’s historical sightseeing. Nearby are monuments such as the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the Basilica Cistern.
Despite being a tourist centre it’s a place of contemplation, where I’ve returned many times to sit on a bench near the fountain and looked at those two enormous monuments. In my opinion, the silence is only disturbed by the loud prayers of Muslims from the Blue Mosque, who broadcast their prayers five times a day. In my opinion this isn’t just about religion but about domination, and so the European tourists could hear Islamic prayers that resemble war cries. In my opinion, conquest and religious domination are the fundamental pillars of Islam.
Although Sultan Ahmet Square is always crowded, I felt comfortably there because the road and tram line are a bit further away, and there was no street noise. I’ve been to this square many times and consider it a very worthwhile place for its history, art, attractive souvenir shops, and people. The attractive fountain, palm trees, and green space are a very relaxing place. Sultan Ahmet Square is also a convenient base for many other tourist attractions.
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet)
Next, I went to see the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet), which always has long lines, as it’s one of Istanbul’s biggest tourist attractions. The Sultan Ahmet Mosque was built between 1609 and 1616 by Ahmed I. It’s called “blue” because it has 20,000 hand-painted blue tiles on its grounds. This decoration of course creates a striking effect, not only as an Islamic temple but also as a historical tourist sight.
Sultanahmet Mosque. Istanbul.
While the Blue Mosque isn’t the largest in the world, it’s still enormous. It has five main domes, six minarets, and eight smaller domes. It also has a square surrounded by a stone path with characteristic arches, and its own garden. It’s enormous, and there are many mosques built in this style in Istanbul, though not as large. To give you an idea of the sheer size of the Blue Mosque, it can accommodate 10,000 worshippers, is 73 meters long and 65 meters wide, and its highest dome stands at a height of 43 meters.
The Blue Mosque also boasts six minarets, of which the four outer ones are 64-meter-high, each and each with loudspeakers that broadcast loud prayers. This means that when Muslims pray inside, the entire city has no choice but to pray along with them. Inside, the mosque is decorated with blue tiles, boasts enormous crystal chandeliers, an Islamic library, and intricately carved wall paintings, which I find very attractive and I deem as the work of masters of patience. Tourists can enter the main courtyard and the interior for free.
It is important however for all European tourists visiting the Blue Mosque to remember, that this structure was built not only for religious reasons but also to emphasize the power of Ottoman Empire and dominance over the conquered nations, after the fall of Constantinople in 1453. This was the first time Islam entered Europe! The mosque was built by skilled architects and builders using money plundered from the conquered nations.
The main courtyard of the Sultanahmet Mosque. Istanbul.
Will history repeat itself ?
Today, all the European prostitutes who visit the Blue Mosque with their Muslim lovers admire the blue tiles and tremble during aggressive Muslim prayers. But, beyond the art and the display of fascinating architecture, the Blue Mosque is a monument to occupation, war, and exploitation, dripping with the blood of Christian Byzantium. When I was there I had a vision; I felt as if I was in Germany, England, Sweden, or the Netherlands in 2030.
Historical sources indicate that during the capture of Constantinople in 1453, many women, including nuns, were enslaved and were victims of sexual violence and slavery. Along with other civilians, nuns were chained and led to slave markets, especially in cities like Adrianople. Byzantine and Latin chroniclers mention that women and nuns were deliberately attacked and captured, with some nuns committing suicide to avoid this fate. Even Ottoman sources confirm the taking of “handsome boys and beautiful girls” as spoils of war and slaves. One such perverts and fanatical enemies of Christianity was still adored in Turkey Sultan Mehmed II, who provided his soldiers and dignitaries with Christian sex slaves. One chronicle recounts that immediately after the fall of Constantinople the daughter of a Christian duke was tied to a cross and raped.
It is especially important to know this part of history today, when Europe is ruled by traitors who invite Muslims to conquer Europe without a fight. If nothing changes, history will repeat itself, and the West will lose much more than “just” Constantinople. I am absolutely certain of this because in the 21st century, Muslims in Europe use exactly the same rhetoric and the same methods as the Ottomans did in the 15th century.
Hagia Sophia
Across Sultan Ahmet Square stands the Hagia Sophia, another monument to Muslim conquests. Construction began in 537, and until 1453 it was a Greek Catholic church and the main seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople. From 1204 to 1261 the building also served as a Catholic church. However, on the 29th of May 1453 the capital of the eastern Roman Empire, Byzantium, was conquered by the Ottoman army under the command of Sultan Mehmed II. With this conquest the Ottomans founded their powerful empire and renamed the city to Istanbul. On that same day, 29th of May 1453, the Muslims converted the Hagia Sophia into a mosque, which served as a place of worship for Islam until 1931. Then, on the 1st of February 1935 the building became a museum. However, on the 24th of July 2020 the Hagia Sophia once again became a mosque when Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan signed a decree reconverting it; restoring its status as an active mosque for the first time in 86 years.
The Fall of Constantinople was a very sad chapter for Christian Europe, as Constantinople was the last Christian city in the East. The Hagia Sophia served as a church for almost 1,000 years and was considered a magnificent example of Byzantine architecture. Although its cultural and architectural value is undeniable, to me the Hagia Sophia looks like a mosque with strong Byzantine architectural influences. The structure boasts four minarets, each over 60 meters high.
Hagia Sophia once served as a church for over 1,000 years, but after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople, it was converted into a mosque and then a museum. Despite this, it still retains its Muslim character. Türkiye.
Inside we can see poorly exposed, faded Christian symbols and prominent Islamic symbols. From the outside the Hagia Sophia may appear pink, although this was not intended during its construction. Considering the materials used in its construction, such as stone and brick; especially at sunrise and sunset, and when illuminated at night, the Hagia Sophia takes on an orange-pink tone.
In my opinion, besides the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia is also a symbol of Islamic domination, though also a symbol of victory over Christianity. Before entering I had an unpleasant experience because Muslims entering the mosque during prayer hours were admitted free of charge, while I was directed to the entrance for non-Muslim, where I could buy a ticket for €30. There is however no chance of good photos, as the interior is always crowded.
During my travels in Muslim countries, there were mosques that were only accessible to Muslims, as they were considered “too sacred” to be visited by followers of other religions. Among the Islamic sites I visited, such places were Medina in Saudi Arabia and the Al-Aqsa Mosque in Palestine. Well, Muslims respect their culture, what I can’t say about Europeans.
A Walk to the Bosphorus
After Hagia Sophia I headed down to the Bosphorus and strolled along the City Walls. This part of Istanbul offers a more peaceful atmosphere, even though it also boasts shops and busy roads. On the way to the Bosphorus I wandered through small streets, bought drinks in small shops, and saw people who despite the tourist invasion still lived there. I also visited a gallery, a souvenir shop, and in the evening I sat in a private teahouse by the City Walls. This place was a real pleasure for me, because after a day full of excitement I sat in silence, sipping Turkish tea from a traditional glass. You can spend an entire day strolling along the Bosphorus, observing the calm sea and fishermen.
On my way back I was stopped by several street hustlers and con artists who tried to talk to me, sell me perfume, and asked if I had a lighter to light a cigarette for them. Others tempted me with good tea and Turkish sweets at exorbitant prices. This is how they compete for customers in Turkey.
Hagia Sophia, Istanbul.
I don’t want tourists to limit their visit to Istanbul to just the main monuments, bazaars and a Bosphorus cruise. You can also swim in Istanbul, and I recommend two places.
- I walked down from the main gate of Topkapi Palace and from the side gate of Hagia Sophia, and after a short while I reached the Bosphorus. There’s a port where the tourist boat picks up tourists for a Bosphorus cruise. Unfortunately there is no sandy beach there. There are only large rocks with Turkish fishermen sitting on them. So I climbed down the rocks and went for a swim. Even in October the water was warm and very pleasant. It’s a long coastline, so you can easily find an easier way to the sea and a place to swim.
- You can also access the Bosphorus through Gülhane Park. The entrance is at the Gülhane tram station, behind Hagia Sophia. At this point on the Bosphorus there is only a park and a promenade, not a swimming area.
- The second place I recommend for swimming is the Bebek district, where you’ll find a small park and a promenade along the Bosphorus. There is also easy access to the sea, making Bebek a popular place to relax from traffic and noise of the city and also a popular swimming spot. From Bebek, you can easily walk to the Rumeli Fortress.
The Topkapi Palace
The Topkapi Palace is one of the most popular tourist attractions and which offers nice views of the Bosphorus and the Asian part of Istanbul. At the beginning however I spent some time in Gülhane Park, in front of Topkapi, which is a pleasant green area. There is a small pond, several sculptures and water that flows down the wall. In all the noise of Istanbul, Gülhane Park is a peaceful oasis.
The construction of the Topkapi Palace began in 1459 on the orders of Mehmed II the Conqueror, six years after the conquest of Constantinople. The name “Topkapi” itself means “Cannon Gate”, which was intended to remind the Turks of the bravery of their nation, and which, especially immediately after the recapture of the capital of Byzantium from the Roman Empire, was inspired by nationalism and a sense of grandeur. In the fifteenth century, the Topkapi Palace was the main residence and administrative center of the Ottoman Sultan, and for over 600 years of existence of the Ottoman Empire in the Topkapi Palace lived about 30 sultans.
The main gate of the Topkapi Palace. Istanbul. Turkey.
Over the centuries, the entire palace complex was extended by subsequent sultans, while the main extensions and changes took place in 1509 after the earthquake and in 1665 after the fire. Along with the next expansion, the Ottoman rulers also mixed architectural styles, which is why today Topkapi is a mixture of the Ottoman, Muslim and European styles. Anyway, in my opinion, Turks always liked European culture and everything that is connected with Europe, only that this admiration always had a very aggressive and destructive character. Topkapi Palace is so big that in its best times there lived about 4000 high-born people, including 300 women in the harem.
To this day, the original plan of Topkapi, designed by Mehmed II, consists of four successive yards surrounded by high walls. Each courtyard served various purposes and is surrounded by a separate gate. The preserved buildings of the palace are generally low, one and two-story buildings that have changed their functions over the centuries. Some buildings, especially in the harem, are not always clear about their purpose.
The first courtyard (sometimes called the outer courtyard) is the largest and the only public courtyard. During the reign of the Ottoman Empire, every unarmed person could enter through the Imperial Gate. The open space of the courtyard made it ideally suited for ceremonies and processions, and most likely it was the busiest palace square. Traces of workshops for artists and craftsmen from Topkapi, such as carpenters, tailors and calligraphers, have survived to this day. This part of Topkapi was built in various architectural styles and still has all kinds of decorations. Noteworthy here is the Hagia Eirene, which was a church during the Byzantine era.
Hagia Eirene – a former church in the Topkapi Palace. Istambul. Turkey.
In the same courtyard, the famous Main Gate or the Central Gate resembles medieval European fortresses with pointed towers and defensive walls. In turn, the Tile Pavilion shows the influence of the Timurid Persian style. I do not like such a great mix of styles, which in Topkapi is almost exaggerated. When entering I had the impression that I was entering a medieval castle and that there was a church nearby, while being inside I felt like in Persia and medieval Turkey. The Welcome Gate leads to the second courtyard, also known as the Divan Square, which was the administrative center of the palace.
Also noteworthy is the Domed Chamber, where official political visits took place. There is also the Tower of Justice, which is the highest building in the Topkapi Palace, and which is also built in European style. In the second courtyard you can see many items that were ‘gifts’ (read: life insurance) from representatives of conquered nations. The covered Gate of Happiness leads to the third and deepest courtyard, which housed the private residence of the Sultan. Only the Sultan, his family members, his servants and occasional approved guests could enter.
The third courtyard extends to the fourth courtyard, which consists mainly of terraced gardens and pavilions with a view of the Bosphorus. It houses a richly decorated Chamber of Circumcision, the Baghdad Pavilion and the Yerevan Pavilion. To better understand the Topkapi Palace, it is necessary to go back to the 15th – 17th century when Topkapi was a city in the city, just like the Forbidden City in Beijing. Nothing has changed in the matter of power and subjects.
The harem was also crucial in Topkapi Palace, where the sultan’s wives, concubines, sons, eunochs lived, and where the sultan’s bath was also of paramount importance. Oddly enough, perhaps to emphasize a false sense of decency, the sultan’s mother held official authority over the harem.
Courtyard in the Topkapi Palace. Istanbul.
!!! Topkapi Palace had also its dark side because all boys and girls were Christians from the conquered nations. The boys were forced to accept Islam and were then educated to be Muslim soldiers and dignitaries, while European girls living in the harem were sexual gifts to the sultan or were bought at the slave markets. (Europe is currently heading that way!).
In 1924 a museum was opened in Topkapi where there is a lot of weapons, costumes, jewellery and all souvenirs of the Ottoman Empire. The museum attracts 3 million tourists every year and the entrance to Topkapi costs €30.
Connecting with the people of Istanbul
Introduction
In this chapter, I’m going to share some of my additional observations. During my walks, sometimes without any real interest in sightseeing and sometimes en route to new monuments, I had interesting conversations with people. In all the countries I’ve travelled, the same pattern always repeats itself. Over a relatively short distance, many surprises and observations await me, which remain in my memory even more than ancient temples and monuments. Sometimes people discuss their worldviews and politics, what also provides a good overview of society. From time to time, I’ll also describe interesting places along the way.
My observations after many years
When I was in Istanbul in 2013, returning from Iran, the city was Turkish, but in 2017 it seemed to me that Istanbul was becoming more Arab. Then, in 2024/25 there were more immigrants from Kazakhstan and Afghanistan, from Africa, and the Indian Subcontinent too. In Turkey however Blacks and Arabs are polite because they are afraid. That’s why they prefer tolerant Europe, where they get everything for free and have quiet consent to robbery and rape.
Turkish shoeshine in Istanbul. It was once a popular work in Turkey, but now it is unfortunately disappearing.
Over the past 10 years society in Istanbul has certainly changed, and just like in Europe not everyone is happy about it. According to statistics there are approximately 3.6 million Arabs in Turkey, including over 1.2 million in Istanbul itself. While buying Turkish sweets I was served by a Syrian vendor, and even he declared that: “Arab immigration to Turkey is insane”. I thought about how bad it was in Western Europe, if even Arabs in Turkey are fed up with other Arabs. Later, a Turkish man also complained to me about excessive immigration, saying: “We are Turks, not Arabs”. He also said that when Arabs arrive somewhere, they immediately colonize that land.
In Europe the same kind of comment made by white people would be equated to “fascism and xenophobia.” Will we survive? I doubt it, although in my opinion the future in Europe lies neither in Islam nor Christianity, but in a single, global mixed herd without national identity, and inspired by destructive equality and false tolerance. Such politics is indeed in the Jewish interest.
In Turkey however there is no political correctness, no promotion of degeneracy, no concessions to other races and cultures, and no propaganda of Turkish guilt. The Turkish government also gives nothing for free and has a clearly defined goal when it comes to national identity. Turks are the vast majority in Istanbul.
I must also admit that when I was in Turkey, I quickly realized that I took a rest from the degeneracy of rainbow flags, which in England are everywhere, like a rash around homosexual anus. Where tolerance ends, endless vulgar provocation begins. In Turkey I saw a lot of Turkish flags, as it should be. Occasionally I saw the Palestinian flag, in a show of support; but not as in England, where I mostly see rainbow flags; and national flags are viciously attacked by a hostile regime.
A walk around Istanbul and interesting conversations
The next day I didn’t focus on sightseeing but on walking around the city and interacting with people. Early in the morning I headed towards the Galata Tower but I didn’t climb to the top because it was terribly crowded, and the ticket cost a whopping €30. My journey there was more interesting. On the Bosphorus I stopped near a boat to observe people going about their daily lives and saw a lot of immigrants from Muslim countries; mainly from Syria, but also from Kazakhstan. I walked along the Bosphorus, by the port, I visited the fish market, and I treated myself to a mackerel kebab.
Turkish tea is served in traditional small glasses, with sugar but unfortunately without lemon.
Then I stopped on a bridge full of restaurants. In the distance, on one side I could see the Galata Tower and on the other the Suleymaniye Mosque, high up on the hill. On the bridge I also saw fishermen catching fish day and night, even though the fish were very small. I think it’s an addiction in Istanbul, a way to maintain friendships and smoke tons of cigarettes, because the fish caught on the Bosphorus are worthless.
A traveller must get lost in a foreign crowd and must find his own way, because only that way is he is able to experience the reality of a given country.
Then I went for breakfast at a modest restaurant where the food was good, but my conversation with the boss was even better. He had an adult son with a Polish woman and showed me a picture of him, to which I replied that I didn’t classify him as Polish because he looked Turkish, and from what I’d learned, he was Muslim and didn’t even speak Polish. I told him that European civilization was fading away into history. He simply patted me on the shoulder and said I was right, and that soon they’d probably even close the Vatican because there were more Muslims there than Christians. That was his opinion of Europe, and it’s hard to blame him.
It’s sad that these things can be explained endlessly to the English or Swedes without any results, while a Turk from Asia understands the decline of Europe very well from afar. On the other hand he also said he was fed up with the Arab invasion of Turkey and called Arabs locusts, to which I responded with a question: “How are Germans supposed to feel about Turkish immigrants?” We shook hands in a very diplomatic tone and then I went to see the Galata Tower.
A view of the Bosphorus with the Suleymaniye Mosque in the distance, during rain. Istanbul.
Galata Tower and Suleymaniye Mosque
The Galata Tower was completed in 1348, when Istanbul was still Constantinople. It offers views of Istanbul, standing almost 67 meters high, with restaurants inside and an observation deck at the top. The most interesting part was the walk up to the Galata Tower, as there were many souvenir shops, sweets, and herbal teas along the way. Some shops also sold humorous posters. Around the Galata Tower there were quite a few more expensive restaurants, and below were small, winding streets and an old mosque. Just being near Galata was definitely worth my time, but I didn’t want to wait in a long line and saved myself €30.
Then I walked across the bridge to see the Suleymaniye Mosque, one of the largest and most famous mosques among Turks and tourists alike. I think its popularity also owes its location, as it’s built on the “Third Hill”—according to the history of Constantinople, a city built on seven hills. The Suleymaniye Mosque was built between 1550 and 1557, combining Ottoman and Byzantine architecture, with domes modelled after the Hagia Sophia; although to me it looked like a smaller copy of the Sultanahmet Mosque.
The Suleymaniye Mosque boasts four minarets, each 72 meters high, and a main dome at 53 meters. It features beautiful interior paintings, attractive bas-reliefs, especially at the entrances, and a courtyard. As with any imperial mosque, the building also served as a school (madrasa), a hospital, and a bathhouse (hammam). Provided this mosque stays in Turkey, I consider it a very pleasant experience, where you can relax, admire the art, stroll through the garden, and gaze down at Istanbul.
Galata Tower. It’s hard to take a photo here. There are always a lot of people.
Turkish shops and further conversations
Then I walked down a street lined with numerous shops. These were sweets and tea shops. In Turkey however sweet products have reached a level of craftsmanship bordering on art. I saw many Turkish sweets, described as “Turkish delight.” There were also appetizing and attractive products in various shapes, often with honey, almonds, and pistachios. There was also ice cream scooped out with spatulas by elegantly dressed Turks with a sense of humour, who when handing me ice cream, dropped it at the last moment; as if it were about to fall out of their hand. There is an entire ritual surrounding Turkish sweets.
One such product is simple Arabic baklava, and I had a pleasant conversation there with a Syrian immigrant. He said that Istanbul was no longer a Turkish city due to the rampant immigration from Arab countries, but primarily from Syria. He was also interested in my travels and complained about the war. He said that he didn’t complete his final year of studies because the US had destroyed his country and bombed his city, including his university. I replied that all wars in West Asia were being fought by the power hungry and blood thirsty Jews, and that Israel was responsible for all those the wars. Of course he agreed with me. The Arabic sweets were delicious.
Another encounter that I remember fondly was my conversation with the owner of a sweets and tea shop. It was the first time I tried pomegranate tea and sweets I’d never eaten before. The Turkish man told me he worked 16-18 hours a day and saw his family only once every three weeks, what in my opinion is clearly slavery. He works in Istanbul and his family lives in the countryside, waiting for his return and his money. He said he wanted to help them but it wasn’t a good life. Other conversations revealed that this kind of slave labour for meager wages is commonplace in Turkey. The entire street of vendors looked tired and bored, because they spend their entire lives in their shops until they run out of energy and go to sleep; only to return to work. I also spoke with other Turks and Iranian immigrants who cut kebabs day and night, and who never knew when they would finish work. Life in Turkey is hard!
Turkish ice cream vendor. Selling traditional Turkish ice cream is a tourist activity that is funny at first, but can also become annoying later on.
While drinking pomegranate tea, a Turkish man sat down next to me and complained that the military in Burma was killing the Rohingya Muslim ethnic minority. In his opinion, if Christians were killed there, all armies would defend them. I replied that he was very wrong, because Christians are the most persecuted people in the world, and in countries like Iraq, China, North Korea, and many African countries Christians are killed en masse. In Europe and America Christians are being destroyed by ultra-liberal, leftist policies. I could see that this was new information for him, and it didn’t surprise me at all. From his perspective Muslims suffer the most because bombs are falling on Muslim countries.
Later I also visited fabric stores that sold scarves, decorative slippers, and shirts. I visited a shop selling dishes and lanterns typical of the sultan’s court. I was also approached many times by perfume sellers, and I often bought them.
Traveling Off the Beaten Path
When in Istanbul, it’s also worth getting off at a non-touristy metro station, which you can choose without a plan. I got off at Zeytinburnu, but others might choose a different one. A district not listed in tourist guides is more realistic, and Zeytinburnu didn’t disappoint. I saw Turks working in cafes and fish markets. I also bought excellent Turkish teas and Turkish sweets, which were cheaper than in Sultanahmet or the Galata Tower. I also went to a tailor, to sew a zipper into my pants. I had trouble communicating, but we eventually understood each other. In Zeytinburnu I also saw Muslims praying in front of a mosque during prayer time, but over there it was natural and peaceful—unlike in Europe, where mass Muslim prayers, sometimes in church grounds and sometimes on tram tracks, are intended to emphasize dominance. Traveling off the beaten tourist track provides a more realistic travel experience.
There are also interesting and realistic travel experiences in the Asian part of Istanbul, where there are fewer monuments, fewer tourists, and where you can spend time with Turkish people who aren’t focused on serving tourists. I recommend walking there, whilst remembering how to get back to the metro, and in the meantime wait for new travel experiences.
The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul
After a few stops for Turkish kebabs and breaks for Turkish tea and coffee I arrived at the Grand Bazaar. My first thought was: what’s the point of having another bazaar when the entire city is a bazaar? I was of course wrong, as this bazaar offered more goods of all kinds, including Turkish carpets, more lanterns, spices, and even more perfumes and leather jackets.
Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.
Furthermore, the ancient Grand Bazaar was built between 1455 and 1730 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Grand Bazaar is a city within a city, and its labyrinth has been described as “a world unto itself.” The Grand Bazaar has been an important trading centre in the Middle East since 1461, and its labyrinth of streets features domed market buildings built in 1455 on the orders of Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror.
That same year I was in Iran, where I saw the best Persian bazaars in Esfahan, Shiraz, and Kashan. Ancient bazaars are part of the culture and history of many Muslim countries, and hold spiritual value for these nations. For this reason I despise the soulless global corporations that have eliminated European bazaars in favour of glass buildings brimming with debauchery and kitsch.
I also liked the architecture of the Grand Bazaar, with its distinctive arches, that I had previously seen in Iran. Here too, the walls were mosaics made of blue tiles, though the walls themselves were mostly dark yellow. I also saw Turkish flags from time to time. I liked it and I admit I was impressed. That’s why I travel, to discover, but on the other hand I want Europe to be Europe. The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is one of the largest in the world, consisting of 61 roofed streets, has over 4,000 shops, and is visited by an estimated 250,000-400,000 people daily. From the Blue Mosque it is two tram stops, but I recommend walking there from Aksaray, as it is much more pleasant that way. In Aksaray I also had a good massage, with a steam room, sauna and a traditional Turkish hammam.
That same day I was wandering around the city, as Istanbul’s greatest attractions are not only its monuments but also its shops, bazaars and watching people. I went for a kebab a couple of times, to a Syrian sweet shop, and once again to the Grand Bazaar where I spent most of my time observing the various goods. I bought almost original perfumes there for just €5 each, which in England cost £80 per 100ml. The entire Muslim world, in addition to carpet production, also specializes in the production of counterfeit perfumes. I saw the same thing in Jordan.
Street in Istanbul turned into a shop. Every corner of the city is interesting.
At the Grand Bazaar beware of pickpockets and con artists who strike up a conversation just to lead tourists to their chosen shop. Also, pay attention to the coffee and ice cream vendors, as their work is accompanied by a specific ritual, which is very interesting from a tourist’s perspective. Tea is served in the traditional Turkish manner, in small glasses and on trays held by chains. I don’t want to advise on buying gold, as I simply don’t know if it’s gold or a yellow metal imitating gold. However, if the price of gold in Istanbul is as attractive as the price of perfume, I think it’s a deal too good to be true. At Turkish bazaars I recommend buying teas and spices.
The Bosphorus cruise
A Bosphorus cruise is a highly touted attraction in Istanbul, and while not all tourists decide to do it, I highly recommend it. There are 2-hour and 4-hour cruises, as well as night cruises with meals, so prices vary. There was tea and music on board, and we stopped occasionally to see interesting sites on both the European and Asian sides. Short cruises allow passengers to stay on the boat the entire time, admiring palaces and fortresses from afar, while longer cruises allow passengers to disembark and visit some of the sites.
The panorama of Istanbul seen from the Bosporus.
I chose a 4-hour cruise for 500 lira, and another time a 1.5-hour cruise for 250 lira, and I was very happy, because otherwise I would never have seen as much as I wanted. Tickets can be purchased at various locations. One is the port below the Sultanahmet Mosque, and another is the port near the Suleymaniye Mosque. Prices also vary, as I’ve seen tickets available not only at ticket offices in ports, but also from watermelon vendors on the Bosphorus, and in tea and sweet shops. Everyone has their own profit there. The ticket offices at the ports are the cheapest because they don’t add extra profit, that a random salesman imposes. Someone selling me watermelons at the port wanted 800 liras for a ticket, but sold it for 500; and he still made a profit.
I should add that a Bosphorus cruise isn’t the only option. You can sail from Istanbul to the historic town of Bursa and return the next day. You can also take a day trip to three islands for relaxation, or if you just want to visit the spectacular Maiden Island. So, there are many options. Remember that Bosphorus Strait connects the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, so you can also inquire about additional cruises there.
The most interesting sights during the Bosphorus cruise:
- Bosphorus Bridge – This cable-stayed road bridge, opened in 1973, connects the Ortaköy district in Europe with the Beylerbeyi district in Asia. The Bosphorus Bridge is one of the longest cable-stayed bridges in the world, at 1,560 meters long. Especially when viewed from below, from a boat, it looked enormous.
- Dolmabahce Palace – Located on the European side of the Bosphorus, Dolmabahce Palace served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1887 and from 1909 to 1922. Dolmabahce Palace was the sultan’s palace and therefore a monument to his grandeur and power. It boasts 285 rooms, 43 salons, six baths, six toilets, and 4.5 tons of glass chandeliers. Dolmabahce Palace is so large that its front façade, facing the shore, extends 500 meters. Covering an area of 4.5 km², it was built in a blend of Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical styles, combined with traditional Ottoman architecture. The palace also boasts beautiful interior finishes, including gold and red ceilings, crystal lamps, antique furniture, carpets, and bas-reliefs in the baths. In other words, it is a monument to money. Outside there is a well-kept garden with a pond and fountain, as well as columns and gates made by artists.
Galata Tower in the distance seen from the boat.
- Dolmahabce Mosque – It stands on the European side of the Bosphorus, right next to the Dolmabahce Palace. The building opened in 1855 and was built concurrently with the palace. The Dolmabahce Mosque has a large main dome and two minarets, each over 40 meters high. It was built in the Baroque and Ottoman styles.
- Beylerbei Palace – It was opened in 1865 and stands on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. This white, low-slung palace, smaller than Dolmahabce was built in the Ottoman style to welcome and entertain foreign guests. It also features elegantly decorated drawing rooms, including one with a pool and fountain. This was a common feature in Ottoman residences, as water provided a calming and cooling effect in the warm climate.
- Ciragan Palace – The Kempinski Hotel, a former palace, is now listed as one of the most expensive hotels in the world. The Sultan Room costs over $35,000 per night. I haven’t been inside, but it’s certainly a luxury for the wealthy. From the boat I could see the pool, rows of neatly planted palm trees, and a large white gate.
Walk along Bosphorus. Istanbul.
- Kucuksu Palace – Also known as the Kucuksu Pavilion, it is small and located on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, near the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. This small palace was completed in 1857, has only two floors, and, excluding the beautiful garden, the building itself covers an area of 15m x 27m. The palace is finished in Italian marble, and interestingly, it was featured in the James Bond film “The World is Not Enough.”
- Rumeli Fortress– It is a medieval castle built on the European shore of the Bosphorus. It was completed around 1452 and was built on the orders of Sultan Mehmet II as a fortress from which the Turks would attack and deliver weapons and food supplies to the then-City of Constantinople. As we know, Constantinople, the eastern capital of the Roman Empire (Byzantium), fell in 1453, which means that Sultan Mehmet II was undoubtedly a skilled strategist. The Rumeli Fortress was deliberately built at the narrowest part of the Bosphorus, in a strait of approximately 660 meters, to control shipping. The castle has three large towers and 14 smaller ones, all in good condition. The great Halil Pasha Tower is noteworthy. The castle grounds contain cannons and exude a pleasant medieval atmosphere, but the most beautiful sights are the views. After the conquest of Constantinople, the castle lost its importance and served as a border zone and later as a prison.
View of the Bosphorus from the Rumeli Fortress. Istanbul. Turkey.
- Anadolu Castle – It lies opposite Rumeli Castle, on the Asian side. It is small but worth seeing. Anadolu is the oldest Ottoman fortified structure, built between 1393 and 1394, which was also built during the conquest of Constantinople. This citadel covers 7 km², is 25 m high, has five observation towers, and a square main tower, which is its hallmark. The fortress is surrounded by defensive walls.
- The Leander Tower (Maiden’s Tower) – This small island with a lighthouse is frequently photographed by tourists and is known as Bosphorus landmark. I didn’t go ashore, but you can hire a separate boat to get there. The island is situated on rocks and is located 200 meters from the shore.
All of the places mentioned above are also accessible by public transport. Some are served by metro, while others are served by buses and boats. Water transport is very popular and practical in Istanbul. Seeing all of these places on your own would certainly allow for more in-depth exploration, but time spent on a boat with a guide was very relaxing. Even if you’ve been to all of these places alone, I still recommend a cruise, even if it’s only a two-hour trip.
Leander’s Tower, also known as the Maiden’s Tower, on the Bosphorus. Istanbul, Turkey.
Transport to the airport
There are many ways to get to Sabiha Gökçen Airport on the Asian side. From Taksim Square at night, the only option is the Havabus. During the day you can get there by metro, which is the fastest and cheapest. From Taksim Square I went to Yenikapi, from there to Ayrılık Çeşmesi, and from there directly to Sabiha Gökçen Havalimani.
If you have time and desire, you can also go to the Bosphorus and take a boat to the port in Kadiköy on the Asian side. I did this during one of my stays, as it was an interesting transportation adventure. The cruise was very pleasant and took only 20 minutes. When I arrived, I sat at a restaurant by the water and fed the fish with bread. I then bought a bus ticket and was at the airport in less than an hour.
Getting to Atatürk Airport on the European side is even easier. From Taksim Square I took the metro to Yenikapi, and from there I took the M1 line to the airport. There are other options, but this way only requires one transfer.
The panorama of Istanbul. Suleymaniye mosque in a distance.
Summary
I wish you a pleasant stay in Istanbul and heartily recommend this attractive tourist city. I wrote my travel guide so that anyone who hasn’t been to Istanbul yet, could use it during their trip, be well-informed and avoid getting lost.
I also hope that my reportage has allowed readers to understand Istanbul and its history in a deeper way, beyond the typical tourist concept. It is crucial that beyond the monuments, colourful lanterns, Bosphorus cruises and baklava, we understand the foundations upon which Istanbul was built and what this city should mean to us as Christians and Europeans. I understand however that not everyone wants to delve into history and prefers only tourism.
Ataturk is still very popular all over Turkey.
I will probably return to Istanbul many times. This bridge between Europe and Asia is a good tourist, medical and culinary centre, and a very good transfer hub to other countries. Moreover, Istanbul is also more affordable than European capitals, and that is also important.
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