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Tehran Travel Guide
Tehran Travel Guide
Tehran has many interesting places worth seeing, and it’s usually the starting point for a trip to Iran. In this article, I describe the most interesting places for tourists, along with my personal experiences and practical information, to make future travellers’ experiences easier and more enjoyable. I also try to encourage travel to Iran, as the country has so much to offer.
Introduction
!! I will be posting more articles in this series soon, which I have listed below.
In this article the author included:
- Tehran Metro and practical tips for getting around Tehran.
- Baharestan.
- Ferdowsi as a currency exchange center.
- Imam Khomeini Station, home to the ancient bazaar, Imam Khomeini Mosque, Golestan Palace, the National Museum of Iran, and the Museum of Islamic Civilization near Adl Shahriar Park.
- In a separate article: “Ebrat Museum in Tehran”, located near Imam Khomeini Station.
- Honarmandan Park and the Iranian Artists’ Forum, by Teleghani station.
- Laleh Park and the Museum of Modern Art and the Carpet Museum.
- The Azadi Tower, a symbol of Iran with cultural and political significance.
- The Darvazeh Dowlat Gas Station Museum.
- The Milad Tower, and a comparison with other towers in Asia. In a separate article: “The Holy Chapel of Imam Khomeini” and the Behesht-e Zahra Cemetery.
- The National Museum of Islamic Revolution and Holy Defence, as well as the mountain forest park and Tablat Bridge.
- Tajrish (Persian Bazaar, Imamzadeh Saleh, Sa’dabad Cultural and Historical Complex, Darband).
- In a separate article: “Den of Espionage in Tehran”.
- In a separate article: “The Ancient City of Rey”.
A street in the Baharestan district of Tehran. In the background is the Iranian flag and a poster of Iran’s spiritual leader, Ali Khameni.
This article is enriched with interesting photos and truthful descriptions from a traveller’s perspective. I recommend it because so-called “democratic countries” will never present this content, unless with their own narrative and musical accompaniment, in order to construct an “alternative truth.” I included the places I saw in my articles, as I found them most interesting. However, Tehran has many more museums, parks, and interesting sites unrelated to Islam to offer. If you’re in a Christian mood, you can, for example, visit the Armenian Sarkis Cathedral; although on the building in front of it, there’s, of course, a huge painting depicting our beloved Ayatollah Khomeini. Women might also want to visit the National Jewel Museum, located near the Ebrat Museum, near Imam Khomeini Station.
There’s no shortage of attractions in Tehran, and I think that if you see as much as I did, you’ll feel fulfilled. This guide, and the articles I linked to it, will certainly be very helpful in navigating Tehran.
The capital city of Iran
For many travellers, Tehran is the beginning of their Persian adventure. Some believe Tehran is just a big city with tedious traffic and polluted air, and therefore they often head straight to Kashan or Esfahan. However, this is a mistake. I’ve been to Tehran several times, and I’ve stopped there many times on my way from north to south. In this article, I intend to show that Tehran is an interesting and attractive tourist city with plenty to do. During several of my trips, I spent many weeks in Tehran and was never bored.
Tehran has interesting streets with impressive propaganda posters and murals. Tehran also has interesting museums, mosques, bazaars, restaurants, and street food. Tehran is a great place for shopping, relaxation, learning about Iranian culture, and gaining a first-hand experience of the country. It’s in Tehran that most people begin to develop a desire for a Persian journey and develop a love for this fascinating and beautiful country. After their first positive experiences in Tehran, European travellers are beginning to see the difference between the real Iran and the Zionist media.
Azadi Tower, Tehran.
I intend to discuss the most interesting places in Tehran to encourage travellers to explore the Iranian capital. In one city, you can admire art from the Persian Empire, choose a rug in a traditional Persian bazaar, and hike the Alborz Mountains. Tehran has much to offer.
My goal is for future travellers to use my guidebook during their stay in Tehran, and that’s why I’m listing points of interest by metro station. This will make it easier for those unfamiliar with Tehran to navigate.
The Tehran metro and other transport
The Tehran Metro makes traveling around this vast city possible and painless. While there are some air pollutants stuck in traffic jams, like cars and buses, life in Tehran would be very difficult without the metro. You can get to every corner of this large and busy city quite quickly and easily. The map is very clear, and the stations are well-marked. Without hesitation, I bought a card and immediately charged it for 200 tomans.
As it turned out, the Tehran Metro isn’t just a means of transportation. It’s also a workplace for travelling salespeople selling socks, perfumes, phone accessories, razors, and anything else that fits in a car. Both talented and less talented singers often board the cars. The metro is a great way to get to know Iranians from a good perspective, as several times, especially at the beginning, they helped me get to the right platform. I also saw many propaganda posters in the subway, most often depicting Shiite statesmen such as Iran’s Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei, former Iranian leader Ayatollah Khomeini, Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah, and national hero General Qasem Soleimani. The subway is therefore a good experience, educating, entertaining, and offering shopping opportunities.
I should add that the subway also has a separate car just for women, although women can travel with men if they wish.
Generał Qasem Soleimani, Iran’s national hero, assassinated by the US in Iraq. Poster in Tehran’s metro.
To illustrate how much of a convenience the metro is, it’s worth noting that Tehran will have a population of 9.8 million by 2025, while including its outskirts, its population will reach 16.8 million. Tehran is the most populous city in West Asia and the second most populous in the Middle East, after Cairo. Tehran has an area of 686 km², and together with its suburbs, Greater Tehran has a total area of 9,500 km². The metro is a true blessing for Tehran. Without it, life would be very difficult.
As a side note, Khomeini Airport offers comprehensive connections to all parts of Tehran. Whenever I boarded the metro, both at the airport and in many other parts of the city, I often saw portraits of the two famous ayatollahs.
!! Here’s the Tehran metro map.
In addition, there are yellow taxis in Tehran, most often old Peugeot 405s and Iranian Saipa taxis, as well as many other unmarked cars that operate as shared taxis. This convenient mode of transportation is available throughout Iran. There’s also a very helpful and cheaper than taxis phone app called Snapp (Persian: اسنپ!), which works similarly to Uber in Malaysia. I’ve noticed that transportation is generally easy in Iran. If a small village doesn’t have Snapp, every hotel has a friend with a car looking to make some extra money.
Baharestan station
When I first visited Iran, I stayed near Imam Khomeini Station, where there are many budget hotels, but recently I chose Baharestan. There’s a good hostel there, well-equipped for tourists and travelers. Some of the staff speak English, and there’s a lovely garden with a pond and breakfast is served. The Baharestan district also has several good Persian restaurants and shops selling freshly squeezed juices and ice cream. Iranians certainly have a sweet tooth. In Baharestan, I also visited a tailor and a pharmacy, and often sat in Baharestan Square, which has a park with a pond and fountains. Every evening, I also went for a walk to see what the street vendors had for sale.
On the south side of Baharestan Square stands a huge mosque with tall minarets, carefully designed arches, a square, and a mosaic exterior. It’s visible from afar, so you’ll have no trouble finding it. The dome itself is 37 meters high and supported by 44 columns. One of these is the Shahid Motahhari Mosque, also known as the Sepahsalar Mosque. It was built during the Qajar era, between 1879 and 1881. Today, in addition to the functioning mosque, it also houses a theological school (madrasa). Upon returning to Iran, this mosque was the first one I visited and I recommend it to lovers of historical art and architecture.
A walk through Tehran is always an adventure, also because of the street art. Most often these are paintings depicting Shiite clerics, Iranian and Hezbollah generals, and Iranian soldiers killed in the Iran-Iraq War.
In the Baharestan district is also the traditional Nagarestan Garden, also built by the Qajar dynasty. Compared to the Golestan Garden, it is small but very pleasant. The Nagarestan Garden also houses an interesting museum, abundant vegetation, and water features with small fountains that cool the air on hot days. There is also a restaurant and a café, and the garden itself is very pleasant and allows for a peaceful time away from the noise of traffic.
In Baharestan Square, I also liked the huge poster of Iran’s Supreme Leader, Ali Khamenei, and the Iranian flags. The Iranian regime certainly has a clearly defined national identity.
Ferdowsi station
Ferdowsi Station serves a very important role in Tehran. It’s a bank and currency exchange station where everyone comes to exchange currency. Many men stand on the street trading currencies, and there’s intense competition between them, which means there’s always room for business. The Iranian rial is a non-convertible currency, subject to all sorts of sanctions, and its exchange rate fluctuates dramatically, sometimes from day to day. In practice, this means that the Iranian rial is worth nothing.
Well… through the Islamic Revolution and the overthrow of the Shah, Imam Khomeini showed America the middle finger; and that’s why mainly Israel, and occupied by the Zionist Jews US and England are destroying Iran also economically.
Every traveller in Tehran should therefore get off at Ferdowsi Station, check the exchange rate at the exchange offices, and talk to the men on the street about what they offer. Of course, you can also exchange currency at your hotel, but at the bank rate, it’s definitely not worth it. I think it’s worth making the effort to get on the metro and exchange currency near Ferdowsi Station.
The leader of the 1979 Islamic Revolution and founder of the Islamic Republic of Iran, Ayatollah Khomeini, remains extremely popular and appears on every banknote.
Some time ago, banks in Ferdowsi and Imam Khomeini Station, such as the popular Bank Melli, opened temporary bank accounts for tourists, but at the turn of 2024/25, this option was no longer available directly. Fortunately, Parsiah Bank issued me two bank cards with very low limits, so-called vouchers, so I could sometimes use them to pay in shops. A tourist bank account is available, but only through the hotel for an additional 15 euros, and at the official Iranian bank exchange rate, which isn’t cost-effective. I find it more profitable to carry hard currency and exchange it occasionally. There are also places similar to Ferdowsi in Esfahan, Kashan, Yazd, and Shiraz.
Ferdowsi also has restaurants serving good food, fruit stands, and a well-stocked pharmacy. In the center of the roundabout, there are also some very interesting propaganda posters. When I was there, I saw leaders like Ali Khamenei, Qasem Suleimani, and Hassan Nasrallah. Currency exchange is a priority here, although Ferdowsi itself is another interesting experience.
I mentioned that the Iranian rial is a non-convertible currency. This is true, but I managed to buy rials at one exchange office in Istanbul, even though this option is not officially advertised.
Imam Khomeini station
There are many interesting places near Imam Khomeini Station that are a must-see. I’ve been to this district many times and took my time. I recommend others to take their time too.
After leaving the station, I saw Imam Khomeini Square, with its green space, a body of water, a fountain, and a monument bearing the Iranian coat of arms. Especially in the evening, when it’s not too hot and there’s less traffic, you can sit on the grass here. The immediate area around Imam Khomeini Station is, of course, full of shops, and further afield, there are also cheap and slightly better hotels. I think this is a good place for someone visiting Tehran for a short stay. When I was in Tehran in 2013, I stayed here. Nearby, there are also open-air restaurants and a small mosque.
Imam Khomeini Square, Tehran.
The traditional bazaar in Tehran is a labyrinth of thousands of shops, workshops, and factories that are always bustling with activity. I always say that the traditional bazaar is the soul of Iran, something every traveller should experience. This fascinating, yet noisy and tiring place has its own charm. Although Persians, Arabs, and Europeans have traded here for a thousand years, most of Tehran’s bazaar is around 200 years old. The bazaar is covered and, as always, has several courtyards containing cafés, tea and spice shops, fruit and vegetable shops, sweet shops, carpet shops, and workshops where copper pots are forged.
There’s nothing you can’t buy or do at the bazaar. In addition to Persian carpets, spices, and fruit, there are horse saddle makers, blacksmiths making knives and axes (recently, also using video games as an example), carpenters, bookbinders, shoemakers, tailors, and several barbers. I also found the shops selling flags and propaganda items very interesting, so if Muslims living in England want to organize a march in London in support of organizations like Hamas and Hezbollah, they’ll definitely find supplies at the bazaar in Iran.
The labyrinthine bazaar in Tehran is a city within a city, stretching over 10 km and with multiple entrances. It’s easy to get lost, so for better orientation, I recommend entering either from the Banco Melli or near the Imam Khomeini Mosque. I think it’s best to simply enter the bazaar street and stroll leisurely, but watch out for the carts full of goods, until your legs ache. Along the way, tourists will likely spot carpets, spices, camel-print socks, and military boots. You can also exchange currency in the gold alley if you haven’t reached Ferdowsi yet, although Iranians have no problem accepting euros and dollars.
Tehran’s traditional bazaar is a difficult place to walk through and take a photo of. It’s always crowded.
If you get lost in the bazaar, it’s no problem, as Iranians are very helpful. Sometimes, even if a tourist doesn’t get lost, a carpet seller will find them, for example, and, over a few cups of tea, try to sell them a true work of art. I think it’s a good experience. You don’t have to buy one, but if you do, it’s even better. I want to point out that each region of Iran has its own unique carpet-making pattern, which is why Iranians immediately know which carpet is from Shiraz and which is from Kerman.
Alternatively, you can also buy a camel-skin rug, which has pockets on the sides and is made in the same style as a regular rug. Someone might ask, why would a Pole need a camel-skin rug? Well, that’s something Poles don’t have yet, and you can use it to cover a doorway and put a few trinkets inside, for example.
Personally, I think the bazaars in Esfahan, Shiraz, and the desert city of Yazd are better, but the one in Tehran is also very good. The bazaar in Tehran isn’t like the one in Kashan, where you can walk through. In Tehran you need to have wide elbows.
The Imam Khomeini Mosque is located inside the bazaar and I highly recommend it (as long as they don’t build one in Europe). This mosque has several entrances, but I recommend the main one, for a view of the entire main courtyard and its towering minarets. Unfortunately, upon entering, an old woman dressed in black sheets started a tantrum at me because I had her in the photo. Not all women react this way, but this one was having a bad day. Young girls in Iran, and even some religiously veiled ones, aren’t so nervous. Finally, a calm man approached me and asked me to delete the photo of this “beauty.” I said I would, of course, and that it wasn’t my fault she happened to walk into my camera. (Greetings to the Persian girls!)
Main courtyard of the Imam Khomeini Mosque. Tehran.
I took a photo of the carefully crafted arches, as this mosque was built in the 18th century and holds architectural and cultural value for me. Then I entered the large courtyard, the centrepiece of which was a pool of water where Muslims wash their feet. I did the same after a long day of sightseeing. I went to the large prayer hall, saw people praying, and also picked up a Quran, though unfortunately they didn’t have an English version. The prayer hall is richly decorated, with colourful tiles, arches, marble staircases, and chandeliers.
In the square, I loved the traditional Persian arches on the walls, the mosaics created by patient builders, and the overall atmosphere of the mosque. While I was here, I saw many posters depicting the leader of Hezbollah, murdered by Israel. This defender of Palestine was named Hassan Nasrallah, and he was depicted smiling and holding a white dove of peace.
(I know this won’t get through to my political critics, but I’m not an enemy of Islam. I like Muslim countries and I also like mosques. I’m just a defender of Europe and European culture, which globalists and people destroyed by their propaganda call ‘hate speech’ to deepen the influence of their ideology.) The Iman Khomeini Mosque is an important part of the Tehran bazaar.
A short walk from the Grand Bazaar is the Golestan Palace (Farsi: کاخ گلستان), a historic complex with stunning architecture and meticulously landscaped gardens. A must-see, Golestan Palace is a masterpiece of Qajar-era Persian architecture, with European influences. Golestan was the seat of the Qajar government, which came to power in 1799 and made Tehran the capital of Iran. Golestan has inspired Iranian artists and architects, boasting gardens, pools, royal pavilions, museums, wall paintings, distinctive Persian arches, and rich art. Built in the 16th century and renovated in the 18th century, the palace houses Persian crafts and objects of historical and cultural value, as well as gifts from European rulers.
Imam Khomeini Mosque. Tehran.
Golestan Palace is easily explored on foot, navigating among the museums, pavilions, and gardens, and I think you could easily spend half a day or more here. Take your time to admire the art and relax in the gardens by the pools. It’s no surprise, of course, that Golestan Palace is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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Here, I’m describing the Ebrat Museum in Tehran, but as a separate article and with separate photos. I recommend it!
“…on the opposite side of the bazaar and the above-mentioned monuments lies a haunting and shocking, yet historically valuable, place. This is the Ebrat Museum, which houses an exhibition devoted to the atrocities committed by Shah Pahlavi’s secret police…
“…Reza Pahlavi went to Israel and is having a good time with Zionist Jews. He has much to say about the brutality of the Islamic regime, but probably little about his father’s regime. It’s also certain that Israel is planning regime change in Iran, and it’s clear who they’ve chosen as their puppet. A photo of Reza Pahlavi as a little boy still hangs in the former torture centre of the Ebrat Museum…”
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Another important sightseeing spot near the Khomeini Square station is the National Museum of Iran and the adjacent Museum of Islamic Civilization. Before starting my tour, I sat in Adl Shahriar Park, a relaxing place. There, I escaped the sun and traffic and sat by a large body of water with fountains, nestled among the greenery. Nearby, there’s also a souvenir shop and a café, as well as two large Persian columns from Persepolis depicting sitting bulls. I think this park, with its tranquility, greenery, souvenir shop, and view of the museum, are a good reason to visit.
A poster in the subway relating to free Palestine. On the right: General Abbas Nilforoushan, assassinated in Beirut on the 27th of September 2024 at Hezbollah headquarters, during an Israeli airstrike. With him was also killed the Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah.
The National Museum of Iran is a grand building with an elegant entrance and well-crafted brickwork, housing a significant portion of Iranian history. This museum is a must-see, but to better understand what lies within, I recommend visiting it at the end of your trip. First, I recommend seeing Persepolis, Naqsh-e Rostam, Naqsh-e Rajab, and other sites that unfortunately aren’t on the must-see list. I also went to great lengths to visit Shushtar and Shush in Khuzestan Province, as well as Qazvin and Zanjan. After seeing these and many other sites in Iran, I recommend the National Museum, which, from the outside, is one of the most attractive buildings in Tehran.
The museum’s interior displays excavations from Persepolis, large sculptures of people and animals, decorated clay pots, ceramics, interesting burial sites from the Persian Empire, and numerous maps. There are also, of course, the large faces, staircases, and bas-reliefs from Persepolis. For example, there was a bas-relief depicting King Xerxes from the Apadana Palace, receiving his courtiers. The museum also houses an interesting map of the Persian Empire at its height. As we know from history, in 330 BCE, Alexander the Great of Macedonia conquered Persepolis and carried off its treasures using thousands of mules, camels, and horses.
From Shush, I also saw decorated brick walls featuring mythical winged figures and a symbol of Zoroastrianism (the original philosophy of ancient Persia). The Iranian Museum was very interesting.
Artifacts from Persepolis. National Museum of Iran. Tehran.
Next door is the Museum of Islamic Civilization, which I also enjoyed. Inside, I saw Persian art, including paintings of people and battles on horseback. I saw Persian patterns on tiles and many carefully decorated pages from the Quran. Some were displayed as paintings, others as unfolded books, and a page the size of a person was displayed in the center of the room. It reminded me of the Quran Museum, which I had seen in Bahrain two years earlier.
Teleghani station
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Here, I describe the former US Embassy in Tehran, which now serves as a museum called the Den of Espionage. This topic is so extensive that I wrote a separate article titled: “The Den of Espionage in Tehran”, enriching it with some very interesting photos… I highly recommend it!
A street in Tehran in front of the former US Embassy, which is now the “Den of Espionage” museum.
“…On November 4, 1979, the so-called ‘hostage crisis’ began when a group of radical Iranian students loyal to Khomeini took over the American embassy in Tehran and held most of the embassy staff captive for 444 days. The Iranians were able to recover and disseminate extensive evidence of the embassy’s hostile actions against Iran and other countries…”
“…After seeing the Den of Espionage, I walked down a street adorned with the flags of Iran, Palestine, and Hezbollah. I really liked the ironic, anti-American paintings on the gate of the former US embassy. Details in the article.
While walking down the street, I also saw paintings of Iranian soldiers with rifles and large posters on houses depicting the assassinated Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah…”
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After a short while, I arrived at Honarmandan Park, a very pleasant and relaxing place. This old brick building once served as a military equipment warehouse but has been transformed into a center for meetings and exhibitions for artists. The park is best known for the Iranian Artists’ Forum, located within its grounds. Inside and outside, you can admire contemporary art and sculptures, which attract many people. There are also several pools, which create a relaxing atmosphere. The park itself is not large, but it is pleasant.
The “Den of Espionage” in Tehran, in the former US Embassy. On the left: Iran’s spiritual leader Ali Khamenei. On the right a message that I really like: ‘the end of liberalism.’
Especially after the Den of Espionage, you can take a break from the war, murder, and conspiracy themes and instead admire the work of Iranian artists and even meet a few of them. Additionally, the Artists’ Forum building houses two restaurants, one of which caters to vegetarians. If you’re in the area, I highly recommend a visit.
Boostan-e Laleh station
This is a pleasant place to spend time, as it houses the popular Laleh Park. In the busy, noisy, and crowded city, Laleh Park is an oasis of peace. This green space attracts the entire city, and young people come here for dates. I lay on the grass, strolled among the trees, and by the water. In the evening, there was a children’s performance, a painting school, and a clay pottery workshop. Laleh Park is a good place to visit at any time. I also returned after dark to stroll among the trees and the flags of Iran, Palestine, and Hezbollah. They sell fruit and ice cream here.
On the side of Laleh Park, but facing the street, in an interestingly designed building, is the Museum of Modern Art. Inside, there was an exhibition of paintings by Persian artists. These included portraits of people, birds, photographs, and watercolours depicting objects from multiple perspectives. There were also paintings depicting the occupation of Palestine by Zionist Israel and the suffering of the Palestinians. One that stands out in my mind is a painting showing Israeli soldiers and a tank driving Palestinians from their village. Another showed a mother, posed like an angel, emerging from the burning land of Palestine, handing her child to heaven. The museum houses many works that require time and reflection.
In Laleh Park, in front of the Carpet Museum. Tehran.
Next door, also within the park, is the renowned Carpet Museum, which was to be expected, as Iran has a long tradition of making carpets, including flying carpets. The carpets on display in the museum were from all over Iran, as evidenced by their patterns and styles. Some depicted people in villages, others people with camels and donkeys at work, there were also wild animals, trees, birds, old Persian cities, and designs from Persepolis. I also saw Adam and Eve picking an apple in Paradise. Some carpets were standard sizes, while others were enormous, covering entire walls. Some carpets date from the 16th and 17th centuries, while one dates back to the Achaemenid era and is over 2,500 years old. The immense work, art, and dedication that went into the craft of Persian handmade carpets is evident here.
At the entrance, there was also a wall-mounted carpet depicting the leader of the Islamic Revolution, Ayatollah Khomeini. I noticed that in every museum, every metro station, and everywhere tourists go, there are always posters, and here, too, there’s a carpet depicting Khomeini. Later, while traveling through Iran, I bought five carpets of different sizes, even though I thought I didn’t need even one. That’s how it is in Iran. You always come back with a carpet.
My favourite type of carpet is the kilim, which is hand-knotted by nomads, usually from sheep, goat, or camel wool. While in Isfahan, I bought two small Afghan rugs, one medium-sized kilim in Isfahan, and the largest in Shiraz. These rugs feel different when you walk on them barefoot. It’s not the same as a machine-made rug in China. Walking on a goat or camel wool rug feels like a connection to nature, especially since the kilim is rough.
While in the old town of Kashan, I bought a small rug depicting Iran’s spiritual leader, Ali Khamenei, against the backdrop of the Iranian flag. I think I’ll invite a Jew over to my house to show him. He’d probably be thrilled, right?
A street in Tehran. In the foreground we see Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah, and in the distance is the Milad Tower.
I advise you to take your time, as the streets outside the park are also very interesting, thanks to the street art beloved by Iranians. On one house, I saw a huge portrait of an Iranian soldier who died in the war with Iraq. Elsewhere, Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah was assassinated. You could easily spend a whole day in Laleh Park and its museums.
Stacja Haram-e Motahar-e Emam Khomeini
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Here, I describe the “Holy Chapel of Imam Khomeini”, but as a separate article and with separate photos. I also discuss the absurdly high construction costs of this massive religious project and write about the problem of Islamization. It’s truly worth it. I recommend it!
“…When the Shiite revolutionary, founder and first Supreme Leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran, Ruhollah Khomeini, died in 1989, Shiite clerics pondered how to honor the great man.
Let my readers judge whether they overdid it…”
“…It’s usually a good idea to combine a trip to the Khomeini Mausoleum with the nearby Behesht-e Zahra military cemetery. This cemetery is the main resting place for those killed in the Iran-Iraq War (1980-1988), and I must admit, it turned out to be very interesting and educational…”
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Meydan-e Azadi
I think this place needs no introduction, as Azadi Station is home to the symbol of Iran, the famous Azadi Tower. When Western media want to portray Iran as the ‘Axis of Evil,’ when there’s civil unrest in Iran, or when war or elections are imminent, they’ll undoubtedly feature the Azadi Tower. This happened when, during the Islamic Revolution in 1979, the Azadi Tower played a major role in Western media.
Azadi Tower, Tehran.
The problem is that Western media never talks about Azadi as an impressive, ambitious architectural project, but rather presents it only in the context of war and revolution. I intend to talk about this interesting place without spreading propaganda. The Azadi Tower was built in 1971 to commemorate the 2500th anniversary of the Persian Empire. It was built in the shape of an inverted ‘Y,’ stands 45 meters high, is very massive, and is clad entirely in cut marble.
Today, the Azadi Tower in Tehran has become an iconic structure that blends traditional Persian and Islamic architectural styles with modern elements from the 1960s. Persian architects sought to incorporate influences from the Achaemenid, Sassanid, and Islamic Persian periods into its design. Despite its massive size and 45 meters, the Azadi Tower is only four stories high. It’s worth noting that the Azadi Tower in Tehran features an iwan-style arch, a characteristic element of traditional Iranian architecture. Iwans are a common feature of mosques, palaces, and caravanserais, and I often saw them while traveling in Persia.
I highly recommend reaching the Azadi observation deck, which is located on the fourth floor, approximately 40 meters above the ground. I took two elevators to get there because I had to change elevators on the second floor. From the observation deck, I had a panoramic view of Tehran and its surroundings, as the narrow, vertical windows offer views in all directions. From the observation deck, I could see the Milad Tower, the traffic; and all in silence and shade. It was definitely worth it.
An exhibition inside the Azadi Tower depicting the times of the Islamic Revolution in 1979.
The basement of the Azadi Tower houses museums and exhibitions related to the history, art, and technology of both ancient and modern times. I saw meteorites that fell in the Iranian desert, clay vessels, several Persian carpets, art related to the Persian Empire, and a very interesting exhibition of old cameras. Because Iran is not only an Islamic republic but also ancient Persia, there were also Aladdin lamps. I also enjoyed the photos from the time of the Azadi Tower’s construction, which showed every stage of this ambitious project. The shop sells books on the subject and many souvenirs.
Inside Azadi, there was also a history of the 1979 Islamic Revolution and the Iran-Iraq War. There were portraits of Khomeini, photos of crowds in Azadi Square with Iranian flags, and young boys with rifles. The photos were emotional, atmospheric, and thought-provoking. Other photos showed Shiite prisoners from the current Ebrat Museum, where the Shah’s executioners, along with Mossad agents, tortured Shiite clerics and the Shah’s political opposition. One of the Ebrat prisoners was Iran’s Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei. (I described the Ebrat Museum in another article.)
The Azadi Tower is located in a green area in the middle of a large roundabout. In the hot climate, it’s a very pleasant place. I came here many times to lie on the grass, walk among the plants and the water. There was also a tree I remember from my previous visit. When I was in Tehran in 2013, this tree was smaller than me, but now it was huge and provided me with shade. In the square, under a striking arch, and among 8,000 pieces of carved marble, this stylish tower is always filled with coffee and tea vendors. It’s a pleasant place both day and night, but it’s less tiring towards dusk. Furthermore, the Azadi Tower is very attractive at sunset, illuminated in a variety of colours.
A traveller I met outside the Azadi Tower in Tehran. Handsome, right?
Next to the square and the Azadi Tower is the dingy Western Bus Station, which I’ve visited many times during my several trips around Iran. In the evenings, of course, there’s a well-stocked bazaar at the station, where you can buy many necessary items and where I spent quality time with the people. I remember being approached by a young man from Afghanistan in the bazaar at Azadi Station, who told me he was angry with Poland for not allowing “refugees” in, and that I could go wherever I wanted. I replied that every nation should have the right to protect its borders and ensure the safety of its citizens, but I would definitely go to Afghanistan. Once again, people were displeased with my “British” accent. I noticed that in Iran, people didn’t believe me because I was Polish and were suspicious when I spoke to them. Being British is better than being American, but still unpopular. It’s certainly better to be Polish in Iran and many other countries.
The Azadi Tower is a must-see, and not just once. In the metro’s basement, you can buy blended perfumes on the spot.
Shahid Haqqani station
This district of Tehran is home to several interesting sites. The most important of these is the National Museum of the Islamic Revolution and Holy Defence, dedicated primarily to the Iran-Iraq War. Hence the name “Holy Defence,” also sometimes called the “Imposed War.” The Holy Defence Museum is one of the largest museums in Iran, covering 21 hectares (53 acres) with its landscaped grounds.
As soon as I left the station, I first went to the observation deck, where I saw large missiles. As we know, Iran’s missile program is the pride of Iran, and I was very impressed by the array of large missiles. It’s a shame there’s no such exhibition in Warsaw. Next, I saw the large blue mosque, which didn’t surprise me at all. It was impressive, but I didn’t go inside, as I’d seen many mosques in Iran. Then I walked around the building to see the weapons and war posters displayed outside. Amidst the greenery and pleasant weather, I enjoyed my time among the warplanes, attack helicopters, tanks, armoured vehicles, and missile launchers. Although these museum objects were no longer fit for use, I enjoyed them immensely, as they provided excellent photo opportunities. There were also photos of Iranian soldiers going to war and memorials to the fallen.
An Iranian Air Force F-14 Tomcat fighter jet from the Iran-Iraq War. On display in front of the National Museum of the Islamic Revolution and Holy Defence in Tehran.
The museum contained many interesting objects and displays. I learned about the history of the Iran-Iraq War, which showed that Iran wasn’t just fighting Iraq under Saddam Hussein’s regime. Iran also fought Iraq’s allies, who provided Saddam with equipment, finances, and intelligence. Primarily, the United States, Israel, Great Britain, Saudi Arabia, and several other countries did much to destroy Iran. Despite this, brave Iran won a very costly victory.
“The Iran-Iraq war cost Saddam Hussein dearly. At the beginning of the war he had $30 billion in hard currency, and by the end of the war he was $100 billion in debt.“
The New York Times, 11th of Sep 1990
At the Holy Defense Museum, I saw weapons used in that war, such as machine guns, bombs, knives, anti-personnel mines, grenade launchers, and drones. I also saw photos of fallen Iranian soldiers, their letters to their families, and clippings from American newspapers about Iran’s impending victory. I also enjoyed the exhibitions depicting the cooperation between the US and wealthy Arab states working together against Iran. Leadership meetings, US aircraft carriers, the dollar-for-dollar trade in oil, and dark images of Saddam Hussein as the primary enemy. Saddam Hussein would never have invaded Iran if he hadn’t had support primarily from the US, but also from Great Britain and Saudi Arabia.
The Iran-Iraq War wasn’t just a war between Iraq and Iran. The Holy Defence Museum had a very interesting exhibit about who financed this war against Iran.
I also saw radio stations, military bases with sandbags, photos of displaced Iranians living in tents, and the sadness of Iranian mothers losing their sons. I also walked along a specially designed street, designed like a painting after the war; with car wrecks, barbed wire, and underground communications points.
I also occasionally saw photos of Ayatollah Khomeini, before the Islamic Revolution and during the war. The museum also featured numerous quotes from Khomeini on patriotism, brotherhood, heroic struggle, and the hypocrisy of the “world devourers.”
At the end of the tour, I went to the room where the uranium enrichment program was displayed. I admit that the Museum of the Holy Defence was indeed very interesting and informative about an important period in Iranian history.
After leaving the museum, my impressions continued. In addition to the tanks, missiles, and attack helicopters, I also saw bullet-riddled cars. These are unpleasant mementos left behind by Mossad terrorists for Iran. In my article, “The Den of Espionage in Tehran” I described the murder of nuclear physicists, whom Israel, with the help of Iranian terrorists have been killing since 2010. Today, these cars are displayed in glass rooms in front of the Museum of the Holy Defence. Looking at the wreckage, I think the firepower was so terrifying that the scientists had no chance of escape.
The Iran-Iraq War wasn’t just a war between Iraq and Iran. The Holy Defence Museum had a very interesting exhibit about who financed this war against Iran.
The Holy Defence Museum is located in the middle of two attractive areas. First, I crossed the bridge, passing the wreckage of wingless warplanes and gazing at large missiles and Iranian flags. Then I walked to a large artificial pond and green space, and to a building housing a cinema and food courts. Inside, it was pleasant and elegant. The entire area is relaxing and provides a respite from the war. Exhibitions and performances are often held outside, and this part of Tehran is constantly being developed. In my opinion, it can only get better. A river should be built under the bridge and beautiful plants should be planted, which I think the Persians will eventually do.
The other side of the museum was also pleasant. I reached several teahouses and food shops before the hill. This area was a mountain forest park, a very popular place for walking and sports. It’s a small mountain trail that required moderate effort and led me to a tall flagpole with a huge Iranian flag. From there it was only a short distance to the modern Tablat Bridge.
Tablat Bridge is the largest pedestrian bridge in Tehran. It is 270 meters long and has three levels connected by ramps and stairs. Tablat Bridge is also illuminated at night and offers a variety of attractions and views. Due to its design and location, Tablat is a popular place for walks and relaxation, offering views of the gardens below and the surrounding mountains. On the other side of the bridge, there are also many attractions for families with children. The Tablat Bridge connects two public parks: Taleghani Park and Abo-Atash Park. Below it lies the Modarres Highway, one of the main highways in northern Tehran.
Rocket models in front of the National Museum of the Islamic Revolution and Holy Defence in Tehran. The enemies of Iran should remember that Iran is not a sitting duck.
The entire area around Shahid Haqqani Station has much to offer, and I believe it’s worth dedicating a day to it. Those with more time will likely return. I’ve been there twice.
Darvazeh Dowlat station
There’s really nothing essential to see at Darvazeh Dowlat station. I went there out of curiosity, having passed through it many times on the Tehran metro, and I thought it might be worth it. Upon exiting the station, I saw a large viaduct, agonizing traffic, and a painting of Khomeini on the wall. There are also a few hotels nearby, but overall, the district is noisy and tiring, and the air makes it difficult to breathe.
Despite this, there’s something I can recommend even in Darvazeh Dowlat. It’s the Transportation Museum, sometimes called the Darvazeh Dowlat Gas Station Museum. During the Pahlavi Shah era, there was a gas station here, which still looks that way. Today, however, the gas station functions as a museum showcasing the history of the gas station and the surrounding Darvazeh Dowlat district, as well as the evolution of fuel transportation and distribution in Iran. Here I saw, among other things, an iconic yellow school bus from the US, an Iranian tanker truck loading gasoline at the gas station, and German and French passenger cars from the 1970s. The gas station and cars are outside, but the museum is behind it.
Tajrish station
In northern Tehran a visit to Tajrish is a must. It has a lot to offer, and I recommend it as a trip that should last at least two days, though three is preferable. Tajrish lies at the foot of the Alborz Mountains and is known for its vibrant atmosphere and numerous historical sites. In Tajrish, you can enjoy a traditional Persian bazaar, visit the Sa’d Abad Gardens, or go on a mountain hike in Darband. The Tajrish district offers a cooler climate and picturesque views thanks to its location at the foot of the mountains.
Below, I’ll explain why travelers should definitely visit Tajrish and how to reach other points of interest. Tajrish is very easy to find on the map because it’s the last station on the red line in the north. Tajrish was once a village that developed into a suburb of Tehran, particularly popular with the wealthy seeking refuge from the summer heat.
Fruit seller at the Tajrish bazaar.
After leaving Tajrish station, I first saw a street stall overflowing with all sorts of goods and food. Next, I entered the traditional Persian Tajrish Bazaar. Walking through, I saw spice shops, carpet shops, jewelry shops, and also visited an interesting vegetable market. Then I sat down for coffee and traditional Persian pistachio sweets, made on site. While it’s not quite Esfahan or Kashan, for such a small traditional bazaar, I found the one in Tajrish well-stocked, interesting, and a good experience of Persian tradition. I’ve been to Tajrish several times, and each time I wandered the bazaar’s narrow, often crowded alleys. Islamic propaganda was also a constant presence, in the form of Hezbollah flags and posters of Shiite clerics.
After leaving the bazaar, I saw even more vendors, but the main selling items were snacks, drinks, and kebabs. On the Tajrish Square side stood the enormous Imamzadeh Saleh Mosque, whose construction began in the 7th-8th centuries and was expanded and improved over the following centuries. The mosque was enormous, built in a distinctive Persian Islamic architectural style. The remains of Saleh, son of the twelve-year-old Shiite imam, Musa al-Kazim, rest within the mosque. Today, it is one of the most popular Shiite places of worship in northern Tehran. The mausoleum is a popular pilgrimage site, known for its mirrored interior and tiled walls.
The Imamzadeh Saleh Mosque and Mausoleum has typical arches and is clad in blue tiles, a huge blue dome, and towering minarets. This mosque is enormous, covering 3,000 square meters, with the main building measuring 50 square meters. In the main square, I saw posters of the two ayatollahs, the leader of Hezbollah, and General Soleimani. This mosque is indeed very popular; I’ve been there during the day and again in the evening, after a mountain climb, and it was always crowded. However, I didn’t spend much time there because after a while, they all look alike. For someone who isn’t even Muslim, I’ve seen more impressive mosques in all of Asia than most Muslims, not only in Iran but also in Uzbekistan, where, in my opinion, the ancient cities are examples of Persian art. Imamzadeh Saleh is located in Tajrish Square and is so huge that it can be seen from afar. I highly recommend this cultural experience on your way from the ancient bazaar or returning from a mountain hike.
Green Palace in Sa’dabad, Tajrish. Tehran.
On the other side of Tajrish Square, there are shared taxis. Some go to the gardens and museums of Sa’d Abad, while others go to the Alborz Mountains, to Darband. Make sure you get in the right taxi. A taxi is essential for Darband, but Sa’d Abad is within walking distance.
Sa’dabad Cultural and Historical Complex is a popular place for relaxation and sightseeing. The Sa’dabad complex covers 300 hectares and was built by the Qajar monarchs and inhabited by the Pahlavi family. The complex includes a natural forest, streets, galleries, residences, palaces, and museums. Surrounded by lush greenery and nestled at the foot of the Alborz Mountains, Sa’dabad offers a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city and the hot climate.
In my opinion, this historic complex is a must-see for anyone visiting Tehran seeking a blend of culture, history, and nature. Even without visiting the palaces and museums, the palace grounds are also very pleasant, as they are perfect for a relaxing stroll. You can also hear the murmur of water flowing from small streams and the rustling of the wind through the trees. I strolled among the trees, along picturesque paths connecting the various palaces, galleries, and museums. Each building tells a different story from Iran’s royal past throughout history, and there are fascinating buildings and architecture to be seen. I think Sa’dabad is also a good place to meet Persian women who love to chat with tourists, pose for photos, and feel beautiful.
Among the greenery and rustling trees of Sa’dabad, I saw many interesting objects. In terms of art, I saw paintings, calligraphy, and an interesting exhibition of Persian miniatures. I visited the Sa’dabad gardens in the fall, when it was cooler, but according to other travellers, it’s also pleasant in summer and winter. While museums and historical exhibits are an important part of Sa’dabad, the elegant architecture surrounded by greenery in the open air can also be a highlight of this trip. Sa’dabad is a great place to visit many times, although I understand that travellers often rush through places.
Persian beauties taking a walk in Sa’dabad Park.
The garden is so vast that shared taxis operate within its grounds if you’re tired. I think it’s a mistake to only include galleries and museums, as you can wander through the Sa’dabad gardens all day, discovering a new part of Iranian history step by step. viewing art, souvenirs, and gifts from foreign leaders, I could imagine the lavish lifestyle the Pahlavi dynasty led. In one palace, I saw their furniture, carpets, paintings, works of art, ceremonial clothing, and even impressive kitchen equipment.
After seeing the Pahlavi residence, I concluded that they spared no expense and lived in great luxury, which they were unwilling to share, even for money. During the Pahlavi dynasty, the Sa’dabad complex was not open to the public. This summer residence was open only to the rulers of the Qajar and Pahlavi dynasties, their families, and guests. Only after the Islamic Revolution in 1979 was the complex transformed into a public museum and opened to the public. I think this is important information!
There are several sites in Sa’dabad that are on the must-see list. These include the White Palace, the Green Palace, and the National Museum of Art. Tickets are required for each of these sites, and they are definitely worth seeing. Besides the artifacts found inside, the stylish ceilings and multi-faceted mirrors are worth noting. I would like to mention a few other sites that are not as advertised but are very interesting and worth your time.
The first is the Automobile Museum, where the elegant cars of Shah Pahlavi, which he used for family and official functions, are on display. He had a collection of Rolls-Royces and a pair of classic Mercedes, including a sports convertible. In one of these, Shah Pahlavi drove US President John Kennedy around Tehran. These were the days when the US was an ally of Iran, as Iran was obedient. As we know, the situation changed dramatically when Khomeini came to power.
Shah Pahlavi’s car collection. He clearly had class and a taste for luxury. What a shame that Iranians couldn’t experience this luxury.
I was also very interested in the Water Museum, which displayed the hydraulic system in Shushtar, designed by the Romans. The museum showcased Iran’s advanced ancient hydraulic system, built primarily for irrigation and urban water supply, utilizing canals, dams, tunnels, and watermills to harness the Karun River. It was here that I decided to go to Shushtar.
Sa’dabad also has a Military Museum, where very old, museum-quality warplanes and tanks are displayed outside, and light weapons inside. However, I’ve seen so many weapons during my travels that I was more pleased with the modern paintings by Iranian artists, the Museum of Miniatures, and the Museum of Quranic Calligraphy. The latter is interesting even for non-Muslims because of its art. Incidentally, I saw a very interesting Quranic Museum in Bahrain.
In Sa’dabad, you can also admire charming Persian women. If you’re tired of expensive cars, elegant interiors, and gold carpets, then all you can do is stroll through the park and at least try to be a gentleman.
The last place I spent a lot of time in was Darakeh & Darband, a mountain trail at the foot of the Alborz Mountains. It’s a very pleasant, relaxing place, where you can definitely escape the noise and traffic of Tehran. For a few kilometres, there are exquisite restaurants and food shops, many of them located along a mountain stream and near waterfalls. Some chaikhanas are set in the stream, among the waterfalls, where a waiter serves kebabs as he descends to the riverbed. This way, you can eat while admiring the mountain nature, often accompanied by birds. As I climbed, I also saw mules and donkeys carrying supplies to the higher elevations.
The entrance to the Darband mountain trail, near Tajrish. A really nice place, but unfortunately they don’t manage their garbage collection.
I reached quite a high point, but I wasn’t aiming for the summits. A beautiful day surrounded by nature was what mattered. Sometimes I walked, sometimes I sat in a clearing by a waterfall. Most people don’t even climb; they just come to sit on chaikhanas in the river and eat. I climbed high above the river and the restaurants, from where I had a view of Tehran in the distance, so for me it wasn’t just a walk.
I’d advise that you should plan your visit to Darband. Most people come just to eat by the river and relax in the mountains. I climbed for 5 hours to gain mountain climbing experience and beautiful views. However, if someone wants to tackle the demanding trail from Darband to Dizin (33.5km), it’s a strenuous, multi-day climb that can break even the most determined hikers. Let’s say for someone in good shape, it’s 16 hours of hard work in a hot, then cool climate, surrounded by rugged nature. Darband can be enjoyable or very challenging.
Unfortunately, this beautiful mountain trail, surrounded by such beautiful nature, has a huge garbage problem. Millions of plastic bags and bottles, broken chairs, and even old shoes – these are a common sight, in addition to the river, waterfalls, and kebabs. Darband is drowning in garbage, leaving a distressing experience.
Shared taxis and minibuses run to Darband from Tajrish Square, opposite the Imamzadeh Saleh Mosque.
Milad Tower
Towards the end of my stay in Tehran, I went to see the Milad Tower, which I’d seen many times while driving around the city. I hadn’t even planned to go there, but I decided to finally do it since I’d already seen everything and had two more days in Iran. In my opinion, the Milad Tower is just another tall structure, being the 6th tallest telecommunications tower in the world and the 24th tallest structure in the world. The tower serves many functions, but I felt it was, above all, a commercial facility. It houses numerous expensive shops, a 5-star hotel, a convention center, a cinema, a world trade center, and a technology park. There are also many attractions for children in front of and inside the tower.
Imam Khomeini. His portrait on the main wall in front of Milad Tower.
The Milad Tower in Tehran’s observation deck is 315 meters high, at the top of its concrete core. The tower also has a 120-meter antenna mast extending above the observation deck, increasing its total height to 435 meters. This structure, undoubtedly the pride of Iran, cost $6.3 million to build. The main building, of course, features large portraits of the two ayatollahs. In comparison, I really liked the Azadi Tower (described above) because it was unique and evoked Persian art and architecture, so it was certainly more interesting for a tourist. However, the Milad Tower is, in my opinion, just another tall commercial structure costing millions. Anyone who wants to climb to the observation deck will have a clear, panoramic view of Tehran with less traffic.
I’ve been to so many countries, and I see that in each of them, the leaders aspire to build tall. Do they have inferiority complexes? In 2022 I was in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and took the opportunity to see the Kingdom Tower, which stands a whopping 302 meters tall. In the Emirates, Kuwait, and Bahrain, I also saw very tall, uniquely designed buildings that have earned iconic status and are recognized worldwide.
I see that Muslims like to build to the sky. However, I prefer lower buildings that reflect the art, culture, and traditional architecture of a given country. However, there are occasional exceptions in modern architecture that I also appreciate. The Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, the Burj al-Arab in Dubai (the “windsurfing hotel”), and the World Trade Center in Manama are particularly noteworthy. In Tehran, I prefer the Azadi Tower.
Iran’s Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei.
Summary of Tehran
My article about Tehran turned out to be so extensive that I’ve divided it into several sections. This shows that there’s certainly a lot to see in Tehran. I don’t want Tehran to be just a stopover for rushed travellers on their way to Esfahan, Yazd, or Damavand. Tehran requires time.
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