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The “Axis of Evil” travel guide
The “Axis of Evil” travel guide
Iran is a very valuable tourist destination, as I have repeatedly realized. This country covers a large area, has many historical treasures, natural beauty and is one of the oldest civilizations in the world. My journey through the “Axis of Evil” was a beautiful experience.
Introduction
Let’s not expect Iran of the 21st century to be a magical land from “One Thousand and One Nights”, but having time for a thorough journey, as it was in my case, I realized that ancient Persia is very much present in Iran. If I was to describe Iran in a few words, they would be: bazaars, mosques, gardens, carpets, desert treasures, kebabs and good people. My full articles about Iran will be very interesting and will allow travellers to get to know and appreciate Iran much better.
Ali Qapu Palace. Imam Square, Isfahan, Iran.
Everything we hear about Iran in the Western media concerns the nuclear program, alleged terrorism and religious fanaticism, but after getting to know this country well, I realized that Iran is a great, educational adventure. As for the ‘Axis of Evil’ I wonder if Iran would have gotten that title if it didn’t have oil worth stealing, and if it hadn’t given itself the right to defend its own territory.
Cities of Iran
The cities of Iran are different from each other, but I think that the ones I will mention are a must-see. I want to remind that I will go into full description in my articles, so in this chapter I intend to encourage you to travel around Iran only in a limited way. I intend to briefly discuss Tehran, Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd and Shiraz, but I’d like to point out that my full travel report from the trip around Iran is much more extensive.
There are people who don’t like Tehran because it is indeed a large city with tiring traffic. I however think otherwise. I liked Tehran and that’s why I made an effort to get to know it well. Usually most travellers start in Tehran, that’s why is a very important first contact. I spent over a week in Tehran and the fact that Tehran has a well-developed metro network makes life much easier. In Tehran I saw the old bazaar at the Khomeini station, next to which there is a traditional bazaar and the Khomeini mosque, the Ebrat Museum and the National Museum. I also saw the huge Khomeini Mausoleum and the Behesht-e Zahra cemetery nearby, which is the main resting place for those killed in the Iran-Iraq war.
Azadi Tower at night. Tehran, Iran.
The north of Tehran, Tajrish, at the foot of the Alborz Mountains was also very attractive. There is a traditional Persian bazaar there, and nearby are the palaces and gardens of Shah Pahlavi. From Tajrish I also climbed the mountains towards Darband. The symbol of Tehran is the Azadi Tower, which I think tourists should see and go to the top. If people in Iran take to the streets to express their dissatisfaction, they will definitely do it around the Azadi Tower.
Kashan is definitely worth a visit. Kashan has a very interesting, pleasant bazaar and is famous for its ancient Persian baths and merchant houses. In Kashan I really liked the desert towers called “wind catchers” and the convex roofs with round windows. You should definitely see the ancient houses of the Persian merchants Khan-e Borujerdi and Khan-e Tabatabei, and the multi-storey Agha Bozorg mosque. Each of these buildings has a water reservoir, and most often orange trees. Kashan also has old city walls, a round ice house and Fin garden. A very pleasant traditional Persian bazaar leads to many of those places.
Esfahan is the pearl of Persian tourism, which is on every traveller’s list. The main place of interest for tourists is the Imam Square, where there are blue mosques, mosaics and Persian art made by masters of Persian patience. This is where are located the Imam Mosque, Sheikh Loftollah Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace, and a large green area with a water reservoir. Around this square there is a roofed traditional Persian bazaar with traditional arches. Whilst there you can buy carpets, miniature paintings on a camel bone and jewellery made of blue stones. The labyrinth of the Persian bazaar leads to the historic Jameh Mosque and the historic streets where you can get lost for a while. Esfahan also has historic stone bridges over the river, of which I liked the Khaju Bridge the most.
Amir Chaqmaq Complex, Yazd, Iran.
The desert city of Yazd was one of the most beautiful experiences of Persia. The old city of Yazd feels like it was built from the desert itself. Although the main attraction of the old city is the Jameh Mosque with its 52m long minarets, what I liked the most were the small streets with traditional Persian arches and walls covered with clay and straw. Among these narrow desert streets are hotels with Persian courtyards, water bodies and orange trees. Yazd also has the Dowlatabad Garden, a traditional bazaar and the spectacular Islamic building called Amir Chaqmaq Complex. Walking around the old city of Yazd I came to the conclusion that the city’s calling card are the wind catchers, a clever way for the towers to catch wind and cool the rooms in the hot desert climate.
I will add that I call Esfahan the blue city, while Kashan and Yazd the beige cities. Every traveller will understand why when they are there. For tourists, but also for historians these are must-see places that show the effort and ingenuity of Persian architecture, rich mosaics and of course carpets. The bazaars are also a great experience, where you can spend whole days and which never bored me. Moving through the labyrinths of traditional bazaars from a few centuries ago, which were also art in themselves I often sat down for one of the many types of tea and then went to a carpet shop. In Iran each region has its own traditional design, as well as glassware and intricately decorated jugs and plates. In the middle of each square, which usually bears the name of Khomeini there is a fountain, and around it there are decorated mosques, palaces and bazaars.
It is also worth mentioning that bazaars are also closely connected to the political life of Iran. Any discontent is heard first in the bazaars and the bazaar owners themselves financed political upheavals.
Bazaar-e Vakil Shiraz Iran.
From Yazd I took a trip to Meybod, Kharanaq and Chak Chak. Imagine desert castles, caravanserais, desert-coloured ice houses and mountain climbs to a Zoroastrian temple. There are also gardens with date palms and pomegranates.
Another must-see place is Shiraz, which I call the city of Persian gardens. The Eram and Narajestan gardens are definitely worth seeing, although the historical part of Shiraz is dominated by the walls of Arg-e Karim Khan ark, Bazar-e Vakil, the ancient bathhouse and a mosque of the same name. Imagine a Persian bazaar with traditional arches where you can buy carpets, good coffee, dates and Persian sweets. I also happily recommend Zoroastrian places such as the Fire Temple and the Tower of Silence. In one city: Shiraz, at the same time you can be in an ancient Persian bazaar, bathhouses, gardens and you can be in the desert climbing up the hill.
Shiraz is also a base for trips to the ruins of the former capital of the Persian Empire: Persepolis. On the same trip I also saw the tombs and bas-reliefs of Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab. From Shiraz I also took a trip to the pink salt lake. However, each city is a bit different and that is why you cannot judge Iran by just one place. The desert city of Yazd seemed to be built from the desert itself and not from a blue mosaic like in Esfahan.
Gate of All Nations, ruins of the former capital of the Persian Empire – Persepolis, Iran.
Caspian Sea
I spent 2 weeks by the Caspian Sea, where the climate is humid and it often rains. I was in Ramsar, Tonekabon, Chalus and Bandar-e Anzali. One might think that time by the Caspian Sea is a ‘luxury holiday’ on beautiful beaches, but Iran is not like that. In the Caspian region I spent many hours walking alone on rainy beaches. Sometimes I slept in hotels and sometimes under palm trees during a heavy storm.
In the Caspian region I also rode horses, I took a cable car up the mountains where I conquered boulder-strewn paths, and once again got very wet and cold. Another time I picked oranges from trees and ate kebabs at street stalls. In Abbasabad, when the sun was shining, fishermen took me on a boat to catch oysters.
I also took up the challenge of going to the mountain station of Kelardasht. From there I went towards Alam-Kuh peak, to see the Akapoul waterfalls. Along the way I watched the turbulent river, grazing sheep and people grilling kebabs.
Akapoul Waterfall on a mountain expedition near Kelardasht. Caspian region of Iran.
The Caspian region does not fit the traditional image of Iran, which is deserts and camels. Only because of the climate can you get the impression that it is different country, although it is not. I saw posters on the streets showing the Ayatollahs, the leader of Hezbollah and mosques. I advise you to go to the Caspian Sea to have this experience of Iran. (I’ve been by the Caspian Sea before; in Azerbaijan, but my experiences from Iran are different.)
Historical villages of Iran
When talking about historical villages of Iran, experienced travellers think primarily of Masuleh, Kandovan and Abyaneh. But, there are also a few other, lesser-known ones in the Central Desert, such as Garmeh, Iraj and Bayaze. Iran requires time and determination to reach all these places, but it is worth it. In all these villages, slow construction is underway, so in 30 years they will probably look like ‘a million dollars’.
Masuleh is a tourist village in the Alborz Mountains where houses are built in storeys on the mountain. Masuleh is distinguished by its narrow streets, river, waterfall, souvenir shops and humid climate. I think that when you are on the Caspian Sea, a day trip to Masuleh should be a priority.
Another interesting village is Kandovan, near Tabriz, which is said to be 7000 years old. Kandovan is sometimes called ‘Persian Cappadocia’, as the rock house in Iran are similar to the one is Turkey. This rock village also has conical rocks on the top, which have been converted into houses. In Kandovan you can buy carpets, sweets, be on the river and watch grazing sheep and donkeys. In Kandovan I spent whole day walking through the narrow streets and climbing to its higher parts.
The “rock village” of Kandovan. Iran.
Abyaneh is a red sandstone village near Kashan. It is renovated in traditional Persian style but very authentic. The people of Abyaneh cover the walls of their houses with red clay, which earned the place the name ‘red village’. Abyaneh is a living museum of Iran because of its cultural heritage, traditions and unique beauty.
Deserts of Iran
Iran has two main deserts. These are the Central Desert and Lut Desert.
Central Desert is largely covered in salt, which is why I saw salt rivers, salt mountains, and salt waterfalls there, among other things. I also visited historical oases in the desert where I had dates and pomegranates, and I got to know the life of the Iranian people outside the well-worn tourist trail. I also really liked the desert village of Mesr, with its sand dunes. In 2024 my base in the Central Desert was the small city of Khur, while in 2013 it was the desert city of Tabas. Then I reached the oasis of Ezmirghan, which I couldn’t even find on the map. I saw goats and donkeys grazing against the background of date palm trees and a spring with crystal clear water.
As for the desert villages of Iran, life there goes on naturally and peacefully. When I was in Iraj, Garmeh or Bayaze, I walked along Persian streets where the walls were covered with clay and straw. I was at the water spring and then I ate dates straight from palm trees and pomegranates straight from the bushes. There were also goats, sheep and camels, and old Persian architecture. The Iranian desert hides many charming places that offer picturesque views and authentic atmosphere.
Lut desert is known primarily for its high rock formations, called Sand Castles, or Kaluts. I pitched a tent there in the desert, on both sides of which I saw huge sandstone rock formations 10 stories high. I climbed them, with only sand, wind and general emptiness as my companions. Then I slept in the Million Star Hotel, because in the dark sky there were millions of stars. At first I slept under the open sky, but when a heavy sandstorm combined with rain brutally interrupted my sleep, I went into the tent. Kaluts were a beautiful, detached from the world experience, but not my only one.
In the desert village of Mesr in the Central Desert. Mesr is a popular tourist destination for its sand dune tours, by car and on camels.
The traditional base for Lut Desert is the interesting city of Kerman, where there is another Persian bazaar, caravanserai, carpets and camels. From there I recommend a trip to Mahan, Rayen and Bam, with its famous Bam citadel; already renovated after the 2005 earthquake.
Persian Gulf
I also really liked the Persian Gulf and Strait of Hormoz, which in Western media are synonymous with oil wars and smuggling. Unfortunately this is true, but I don’t point Iran as the guilty one. I had nice time in the port city of Bandar Abbas and then on Qeshm and Hormoz islands. On Qeshm my life was hard but this desert island turned out to be the expedition of a lifetime. I hitchhiked and travelled on foot, and whilst walking through the desert, sometimes I saw herds of wild camels passing by. Among many other places I reached a beautifully formed canyon, in which fortunately, there was a well. I want to point out that I had very difficult time there because I was running out of water, I was a few kilometres away from civilization and the temperature reached 45°C.
I was also in Namakdan, the largest salt cave in the world, and on a boat trip through the mangrove forest. When I finally left Qeshm I felt exhausted, because I had been sleeping in the desert for a week and only washed in the sea. My clothes were ruined from the sun and sweat and I myself lost 4 kg in a week, but despite this, it was a great experience. Then I sailed to Hormoz, a small island with a ruin of a Portuguese fort.
Kaluts, Lut Desert, Iran.
I recommend to dedicate a month for the Persian Gulf and provide yourself with at least a minimum luxury, so that this trip does not turn out to be a fight for survival. You can then have more time to explore the canyon, spend time with camels, go fishing or just sit on the beach. Although Persian Gulf is still in the shadow of constant conflicts, it offers unforgettable experiences, and that’s why I think it is necessary to get to know its port cities and islands. Let’s not let the constant wars in the Middle East spoil our holidays.
Islamic Republic
As for the Islamic Republic itself I went to the cities of Qom and Mashhad. These are the two holiest places in Iran, which attract pilgrims and travellers. There are a lot of mosques in Iran, so let everyone decide whether it’s worth it. Qom has the advantage of being located between Tehran and Esfahan, so stopping in Qom for a day is convenient and painless. Unfortunately, Mashhad is over 900 km from Tehran and a 14-hour night bus ride towards Turkmenistan.
I recommend those places not only because of the temple complexes, but more because of the people watching. In my opinion both of those ‘holy places’ are also good destinations for psychiatrists, for the purpose of treatment of Muslim patients. As it turned out, not everyone in Iran shares the Islamic views of the government and some even believe that constant expansion of the Haram temple complex in Mashhad is pointless.
I really liked both Qom and Mashhad. It was fun, I met nice people and I also had a fight in the hotel with some Pakistani bullies. Great mosques, domes and minarets were very interesting from an architectural and artistic point of view, but only as long as they don’t build them in England.
Founder of the Islamic Republic of Iran Ayatollah Khomeini. Photo from Imam Khomeini metro station in Tehran.
Other tourist destinations in Iran
It’s worth seeing other places in Iran too. Of course it requires more time and motivation, but I did it and I recommend it.
- I climbed Damavand – the highest peak in Iran and also the Middle East. It’s a great challenge, which offers picturesque views, but you have to be in shape. I was exhausted.
- I also climbed through the mountain jungle to the Rudkhan fortress, built by the Persians to defend against Arab invasions. It was worth it but the 3-hour climb knocked me out.
- I also went to Soltaniyeh to see the ancient mosques left by the Mongol Empire.
- From Qazvin I organized a 3-day expedition to the Alamut Valley and the Castles of Assassins.
- While in Hamedan, I went to the Ali Sadr water cave.
- The small historical city of Abarqu, between Yazd and Shiraz, was also very interesting. Most travellers don’t stop in Abarqu, what I think is a big mistake. Abarqu was a very nice experience of Persia.
- Khuzestan province turned out to be a worthwhile tourist destination. I went to Shushtar, Shush and a few other places along the way. Shushtar is famous for its hydraulic irrigation system built by the Romans during the Sassanid period. There are bridges, dams, canals, waterfalls and structures that work together as a hydraulic system. Shushtar and Shush also offer quiet time by the river, sheep pastures in green surroundings and a couple of castles.
- If you have more time in Tehran, I also recommend a trip to the ancient city of Rey.
- I travelled the remote roads of Iran that are hard to find on a map. Sometimes by bus and sometimes as a passenger in a truck carrying ostriches for kebabs. Adventure expeditions are not just about getting to the destination but also about the adventures along the way. Iran is an adventure of the road.
Water hydraulic system built by the Romans. Shushtar, Iran.
Iran is not a country for the lazy. In Iran a traveller has to work for his adventures, so you have to be in good shape and have patience, because people very rarely speak English. I wish future travellers successful adventures and good luck! If someone wants to travel through Iran, like me, it will be difficult, but with the right mentality it is possible. Iran takes time and I know that it will definitely be easier to do this expedition more than once.
Summary of Iran
Traveling by bus and hitchhiking and eating good Persian food, I spent many months in this very interesting and historically rich country. Iran was one of my best travel experiences. I also had good contact with women. They were curious about where I came from, and it was obvious that they needed to talk to someone from outside Iran. I also believe that Iranian women need love.
Iran is a country that requires effort from tourists, but rewards them with unforgettable experiences. Despite the hardship of travel Iran leaves indelible memories and encourages you to discover its secrets. Contact with Persians, their traditions and culture make Iran one of the most interesting places to travel and will certainly enrich travellers with a broader worldview.
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“Axis of Evil”
The title of the article is of course a joke but its origins are not funny. Before the illegal invasion of Iraq in 2003, terrorist George Bush declared Iran, Iraq and North Korea to be the “Axis of Evil”. The US and its global Jews wanted to provoke another war for Zionist Israel. To have a pretext for the attack the US blew up the twin towers in New York and soon invaded Iraq, based on the lie that it supposedly had ‘weapons of mass destruction’; which were never found because Iraq never had them.
Then, together with the UK, led by war criminal Tony Blair, the US also invaded and destroyed countries previously outside the global Jewish banking system, such as Syria and Libya. This means that Western countries led by terrorist Jews invaded and destroyed three peaceful Muslim countries that never threatened the US and UK and never had the military capability to threaten them. Therefore the terrorists organized terrible wars, based on the accusation of peaceful countries of terrorism.
Muslims can be accused of many things but certainly not the attack on September 11. It was an inside job and the buildings were blown up from below. The US has such radars that it can see birds flying on the other side of the world but they didn’t see two planes over New York. “Politics of Truth”.
The second part of this war is the fulfilment of the Jewish globalist plan, which is the continuous invasion of Europe from Africa and the Middle East, and what I call the “Great Replacement Project”. The removal of Libyan leader Gadaffi, destruction of Iraq and Syria, continuous bombing of Lebanon, and Europe under the rule of liberal-leftist puppets have made Europe black and Muslim.
The US also wanted to attack Iran, and the Zionist lobby is still urging the US and UK to do so. Iran however is not a sitting duck, it has powerful allies ready to weaken the US, and such an attack would require greater investment. The US has also included Cuba, China and Russia in the expanded “Axis of Evil”, but the most hatred from the US, UK and Israel still flows towards Iran. Globalists have to reckon with Russia and China both militarily and economically, which is why those countries are not officially that ‘evil’. In response Iran created the “Axis of Resistance”, and despite all possible sanctions it bravely copes with threats and dangers.
By the way, most terrorist attacks in the Middle East were organized not by Muslims but by Israel.
Saddam Hussein and Bashar al-Assad were not angels, but they were also not Islamists, of which America produces the most. The US, together with Israel, founded and supported ISIS and the Taliban, and they destroyed and replaced Muslim countries not ruled by Islamists with the most radical Islamists. In such circumstances the ‘war on terror’ will last forever, because Israel can only be strong through the weakness of its neighbours. It is true that Iran has its own armies in the region that it supports, such as: Hezbollah, Hamas and the Houthis. None of these organizations conducts peace missions, but considering that Iran is surrounded by American bases and Israel, it must defend itself.
General Qasem Soleimani, killed by a US drone strike in Iraq on January 3, 2020. Zanjan, Iran. It may seem ironic but General Soleimani was declared a terrorist by terrorists, so he was murdered by the ‘good guys’. Today he is a national hero of Iran and pictures of him are displayed all over the country. If the US calls this general a terrorist, they mean that he posed a threat to their interests in the Middle East.
The original name “Axis of Evil” was used by the US during World War II in relation to: Nazi Germany, fascist Italy and the Empire of Japan. History never mentions that Adolf Hitler wanted to create a banking system that would be completely independent of the global Jewish banking system. Nazi Germany, destroyed by the global Jews and subjected to all possible sanctions, like Iran today, was forced to fight.
Let’s think whether there would be less evil in the world if it weren’t for the US and Israel? Considering all the wars started by these two countries it seems so, but then again when one predator is missing in nature another one quickly takes its place. Looking at Russia, China and various Muslims I doubt they are capable of peace. Time would surely show that there will never be a positive hero in this story, because greed, hypocrisy and war are parts of human nature. However, I still consider the “Axis of Evil” to be a fiction invented by Jewish-American terrorists which has done a lot of damage to the world.
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